Fafnir 

FA:  John Bouchard, Steve Zajchowski, Roger Martin Type:  Ice Consensus:  WI5+ [details] Length:  3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade IV Season:  Winter Views: 277 page views Submitted By: andrew kulmatiski on Sep 19, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Rusty Reno leading the crux

Description 

Too many people on the Black Dike? Look to the right - wow that looks crazy, and it is. Conditions really vary on this route, but it often demonstrates some wild blocky climbing through ice ceilings. Strong upgulley winds can form horizontal ice roofs that have to be negotiated.
P1. Up the Black Dike gulley
P2. Step right, climb through bulges to a snow ledge.
P3. Continue through blocky climbing on sometimes thin ice (crux) then through mixed climbing up a small gulley to top.

Location 

The route shares a start with the Black Dike, in the Black Dike coloir. After the first pitch move right.

Protection 

Bring some stubbies. Large nuts or med cam for exit moves could be used.