NH Ice and Alpine Climbing

1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.

Description 

New Hampshire offers some of the best ice climbing in the lower-48. Maybe it's the fact that winters tend to be long and wet, or maybe it's the fact that summers tend to be short and humid and wet, but in winter, ice seems to form on every piece of exposed rock. Be it the road cuts on Interstate 93, the grungy summer sport climbs at Rumney, the moss-filled chimneys at Cathedral Ledge, or the shady reaches of Cannon Cliff, chances are each of these surfaces sports a worthwhile ice objective (except the road cut, which would be an illegal objective).

Most of the ice climbing activity in New Hampshire is focused around Frankenstein Cliff. It's easy access, proximity to North Conway, and numerous crag-style ice routes all assure that this ice destination will remain popular and crowded throughout the winter. Those looking for more of an adventure will certainly find it in the form of brutal cold and full-on conditions on Cannon Cliff, the premier alpine climbing setting in the Northeast. For the technical, demanding, multi-pitch and often mixed experience, look to the proud routes on Cathedral Ledge. Finally, for that quick ice-burn, check out Rumney for a bunch of shorter, often thin routes.

Mt. Washington, the highest point in New England and home of "the world's worst weather" offers both ice and alpine climbing in a serious, mountain setting. Despite it's modest height (by "out-west" standards), this mountain has brought about more than its share of tragedies.

Getting There 

Ice is everywhere in this state. View the individual pages for directions to your chosen destination.

Featured Route For NH Ice and Alpine Climbing

Black Dike 5.6 WI4-5 M3  New Hampshire : NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs

The Black Dike is perhaps New England's most famous ice climb. For many a winter climber, an ascent of the Dike is a highlight of a season. From the parking lot, locate the obvious, sinuous line of ice up the deep cleft to the right of the Whitney Gilman Ridge. The Black Dike climbs this ice for three long pitches to the top of the cliff.The approach is the same as for the WG Ridge, though expect it to take much longer if the talus is snow covere...[more]