Gill's Groove 

FA:  Jerry Handren & Chris Gill October 29, 1986 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 281 page views Submitted By: matthew ritter on Apr 28, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Gill's Groove

Description 

I'd recommend wearing your new shoes for this one. I can't imagine climbing this in Boreal Fires. An overhanging laser cut corner with a very thin crack. Boulder in from the left to a stance and the first crux, then again, the whole thing is one big crux. Very technical,strenuous stemming and micro seam laybacking leads to a stance at 3/4 height where hardship continues to a much easier and fun top out. The foot holds on this pitch are small to non-existent. If you want to TR, bring lots of webbing or cordalette to clear the lip from the tree, and throw in a directional, or you can rap in and build a bomber all gear anchor just below the lip with small cams and nuts.

Location 

Gill's Groove Crag is located on the left side of The Far Cliff. Hike over from the right side of the Alcohol Wall or walk down into the valley below the Eyeless in Gaza area, turn left, and follow the valley up to Gill's Groove.

Protection 

The smallest gear you've got. And some tight fingers gear for the top. Ball-Nutz, small wires, small cams. Tree on top.