This one will wake you up if 5.10a is your limit! I must quote the Ed Webster guidebook here for, it is my bible, and I enjoy the wording for its understated nature. P1 "Climb on to a moderate slab, protect under a thin arch, then face climb (5.9+) up to a small, horizontal ledge six feet right of the actual dihedral. Clip a piton (with relief), step left, and stem up (5.10a) to good holds and a stance. Escape left around a small roof to a belay/rappel anchor."
The transition from the slab to the small ledge is protected below your feet on a slab as you pull onto a vertical face (kinda hairy). Clipping the flexy piton feels good as you move into the fun dihedral.
the book describes two options for a second pitch, both of which are overgrown and need to be cleaned. I've never ventured higher, though to me it looks like worthwhile crack climbing.
This is an exceptionally fun pitch that is marred only by the condition of the 2nd pitch. I hope some cleaning will yield more fun to complete the Rough Boys experience.
Location
Around the corner from the Right Roof, and immediately right of Fat Girls with Acne
Protection
small cams and nuts. I found a .75 Camalot useful up top
A cool route, i had almost forgot about. The gear- remember Ed has a HUGE reach and was real good with pins. The gear was good- 28 years ago. I only vaguely remember P2, something about RP's and and a knifeblade.
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