The Kancamagus Crags Area comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods.
Many of these crags are singularly interesting. Combined, this area represents a worthy destination in its own right. From the steep sport climbs at Sundown's Main Cliff, to the splitter crack of Crack in the Woods, to the easy but incredibly runout climbs of the Rainbow Slab, the Kancamagus Crags have enough rock to entertain every climber.
Getting There
The Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway.
The Albany Covered Bridge is a good reference point. This connects the Kanc with Dugway Road, on the other side of the river. Many areas are approached off Dugway Road.
Reference
The area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kancamagus Crags:
Yellow Matter Custard is yet another perfect sport route on Sundown's Main Cliff. While Yellow Matter Custard retains a reputation for fingery, sharp climbing, the route still requires more than just finger strength. All of those crimps lead to a pretty sizable pump, and the redpoint crux might be managing whatever fatigue you sustained on the lower, crimpy crux. Start just left of the popular Romper Room, and climb up a series of stacked blocks...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
The Kancamagus Crags are little pockets of wilderness climbing along the Swift River in the White Mountains. While Sundown Ledge sees more consistent traffic than the rest of these crags, the area as a whole offers a remote climbing experience compared to the usual NH destinations of Cathedral, White Horse, and Rumney.
The approaches to many of these crags are hard to find and strenuous. (Despite repeated attempts, no one I know has actually made it to Crag-Y.) However, this adventurous hiking is well worth the effort as the area offers a variety of classic cracks, engaging mixed routed, and steep bolted lines. Some of the more remote cliffs are home to five-star granite routes that see few ascents, and the rock here still carries the flavor of an untouched line--grainy, rain-washed, and brushed with lichen.
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