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Thin Air Face
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Thin Air 

5.6

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 2,418 page views

Submitted By: jeremyadams on Jan 2, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: The Bong anchors of pitch 1, with Nuria at pitch 2...


Description 

Although the crux fourth pitch earns this classic climb's 5.6 rating, new and seasoned climbers alike find adventure on each of Thin Air's pitches. The run-out (but easy) first pitch gains fixed bong anchors. Pitch two's traverse protects well, but offers a keen pucker as the ground drops away (and it's sometimes a little wet) en route to bolts. P1 and P2 can be combined when traffic allows. Pitch three climbs the face into a fun chimney, gaining a ledge (crowds easily, gear anchor takes variety of sizes and gear types). P4 follows a weakness through an overlap, gaining the large ledge below Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8+) via an easy, dirty corner (left) or tricky, polished slab (direct/right). Some finish the last 30 feet as a separate pitch.


Location 

The namesake route of the Thin Air Face is found by following the trail past Cote Boulder past improbable aid routes until the staircase start of the Standard Route chimney is visible on the right. Continue up switchbacks to a dark-brown, featured slab. The easiest descent is by following a trail off the right end of the ledge. This trail bends left and gains the summit road in minutes. Hitch or walk down road. Other pleasant options include climbing Pine Tree Eliminate or other more difficult Airation Buttress routes.


Protection 

Nuts and cams up to 3 inches.



Photos of Thin Air Slideshow Add Photo
Andy entering the chimney at the top of the 3rd pitch of Thin Air. Fun moves here end at a great belay ledge.

Andy entering the chimney at the top of the 3rd pi...

Finishing the second pitch of Thin Air.

Finishing the second pitch of Thin Air.

Following the bolt line to the chimney on the third pitch of Thin Air.

Following the bolt line to the chimney on the thir...

Thin air third pitch belay station, it can get crazy on any weekend with folks climbing in from toe-crack, thinner, turner's flake and thin air.

Thin air third pitch belay station, it can get cra...

In the chimney

In the chimney

Tom leading Thin Air

Tom leading Thin Air

Picture looking down from the crux

Picture looking down from the crux

Jason Stone leading off on the second pitch of Thin Air.

Jason Stone leading off on the second pitch of Thi...

Striking a pose on the ever-classic Thin Air traverse. PW Lead.

Striking a pose on the ever-classic Thin Air trave...

Dave finishing the crux on Thin Air... check out the exposure... thats a great spot...

Dave finishing the crux on Thin Air... check out t...

The Thin Air route with Pine Tree Eliminate at the top. I've used XX to mark belay spots but only the first and second pitch have fixed anchors (bongs and bolts respectively). Note that the third belay spot I've marked is actually higher up than the standard spot right above the chimney. I belayed on the ledge slightly below the overlap on the 4th pitch. I think this was nice and made communication and visibility there really easy. Obviously, the belay would work from either ledge just fine.

BETA PHOTO: The Thin Air route with Pine Tree Eliminate at the...

Looking back at my friend Liam from the top of the tricky slab finish of Thin Air. This is the direct/right line. The other option is to stay to the left and follow up a dirty/easy corner. I think this finish was very cool and probably more fun than the dirty corner would have been, but please note that there is no protection for the last slab section. It's pretty low angle and only about 8 feet tall, but does require some good slab technique.

BETA PHOTO: Looking back at my friend Liam from the top of the...


Comments on Thin Air Add Comment
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By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.6

My first trad lead and a memorable one. Highly recommended- will leave you with fond memories.

By chris deulen
From: Portland, ME
May 1, 2009
rating: 5.6

If by "crux 4th pitch" you mean the random 8 foot boulder problem at the top with a good ledge below it, then yeah, definitely cruxy. Kinda silly, but fun nonetheless.

By D Goldberg
From: Hanover, NH
Jul 20, 2009

As of July 17, 2009 there is a VERY detached/hollow sounding flake just below the tree/chimney on the third pitch. There was a nice chalk "X" on it when I got there. I didn't dare pull on it.

By Pal Pocsi
From: Waterbury, CT
4 days ago

I climbed this route yesterday and the flake was still there. It is indeed super hollow and care should be taken to not pull out on this. I refreshed the X chalk mark. It's relatively easy to just reach up to the next section of flake that is solid and avoid this altogether. Awesome route!