Women in Love, a Joe Cote aid route, is one of the classic crack climbs in the NE. Steep, clean and exposed climbing with airy belays. Ratings go back and forth for the crux pitch--12a is probably appropriate.
Pitch 1. Easy but awkward climbing leads to a fierce thin section (11d). There used to be a tree to get past the last crux. A good ledge is just above. 70'
Pitch 2. Continue up the easier finger crack to an exposed hanging belay in the vicinity of the top of the Beast Flake (5.11b). 70'
Pitch 3. A short section of crack/corner climbing leads to a thin boulder problem past two bolts right on the arete trending left. Finish up an awesomely exposed flake that lands you on the ledge below the tourist overlook. (12a) 70'
Location
Off the right end of the long tree-covered ledge, find a nice sloping ledge with an obvious right-leaning finger crack. The best approach is to traverse the ledge across to the route. You can also climb WILD which is two somewhat unevenly protected pitches (11b, 10c)starting left of the Beast.
Protection
Plenty of finger-size gear. The route protects really well
I haven't been on it in 7 years, but the Wild Women start was neither dirty nor run-out at that time. It certainly seems to be the way to start Women In Love. Put it all together and it's easily one of the best routes on the cliff. Has anyone ever replaced the bolt on the crux pitch. I remember it being old and in a bad location for the free-climbing. It is what it is though, I guess, with former aid routes.
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