It was hard for me to decide how many stars to give this one due to how overgrown the vegetation is... If it was nice and clean I feel like it would be four stars for sure however right now two stars is a bit if a stretch... The moves are awesome the route is super obvious and aesthetic it just feels like a jungle experience... though it is an R rated route it seems like it wouldn't be too bad if the crack was cleaned out... People have done major cleaning in the past and due to the location of the climb (a wet spot) and low traffic it comes back quick... as of july 2009 it has again been cleaned and looks great... get on it...
Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb first pitch of recompense until you get to a few pins below a corner... Many people belay here there first time up recompense not realizing that there is a nice belay for that route around the corner... Back up the pins and belay from here...
Pitch 2: 5.7 Go up the corner above (fun) to a ledge, move up and left to belay level with the start of the chimney on recompense...
Pitch 3: 5.9+R This is the money pitch... Move up and left through some broken blocky rock and back to the right to get in to the long corner... climb on dirty jams and laybacks through the jungle of ferns and bushes that currently own the route... Eventually the crack widens to an off-width layback situation... It gets a bit pumpy here... there are gear possibilities through here but you will have to work for pro... Continue to a tree belay...
Pitch 4: Climb the final corner to the top (this is the same corner as Commando Run)...
Nice work...
Location
The next obvious corner right of Recompense (5.9)... Start up Recompense then break on to Gypsy 2/3 up the first pitch...
Protection
Normal rack plus perhaps some wide cams for the OW section but they would be for convinence as there are other options...
the other day while climbing the prow i was looking over at Gypsy and it seems like someone did some MEGA cleaning on it and it looks perfect! and ready to climb... huge thanks to whoever did the cleaning, i cant wait to get back on it!!!
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Jul 8, 2009
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