This route sees lots of toprope traffic but relatively few lead ascents.... The technical crux happens early on in the form of a wide undercling flake, this saps your energy so the rest of the route you are just trying to fight the pump.... There is a great variety of climbing on Peanut Gallery Flake from wide crack to fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and back to wide, and squeeze chimney to the top....
If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do....
Location
This feature is obvious from the ground.... Looking up at the prow you will see the flake off to the right above "The big flush"....
From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence...You can set up a TR off of the anchor or if you are a brave soul rap down in to the Big Flush belay there at the base of the flake at a pine tree or the fixed bolt anchor and lead it....
I think Kenny Sims made the first lead of this route. He did have some problems with clipping in the wrong rope too! Anyway a good pump- also the arete to the right is a good tr 11B
The Prow Area
RSS Feed
