Ladd following and cleaning the big pro on this cl...
Description
The Beast Flake is a variation to the second pitch of Recompense that is so good, it deserves its own name.
From the bolted belay on Recompense, head up the chimney for a ways until it is obvious to traverse left (small TCU pro). Traverse around the corner (crux) and gain the wonderful flake. This flake is huge and is the Platonic ideal of juggy. Layback with little difficulty, and also little pro unless you brought numerous #3 and #3.5 Camalots. Belay at the top of the flake off gear at a stance.
The only downfall of this route (literally) is that you must then climb down from the belay, enter the chimey and climb Recompense's second pitch chimney grovel the the routes third pitch belay stance below the large dihedral.
Climbing Recompense using this variation is often called Recom-beast.
Protection
Small TCUs to protect the traverse, bigger cams if you want to sew up the flake.
This route is SO GOOD you should not bother with the regular second pitch of Recompense. You can place pro high before the traverse and do the crux with the rope above you. This move is sometimes wet, but the climbing above is hard to beat.
The Recom-Beast variation is the best way to do the route; however, there is a better variation for the next pitch so you don't have to grovel in the chimney at all.... I call it the high traverse, and it makes every pitch a classic.... After belaying atop the huge detached (yet secure) block at the top of the Beast Flake...you climb up a layback flake until you are even with a flake to your right (I normally put in a green and a purple Camalot) traverse right in to an undercling and a sidepull with bad feet.... Make a big step right on to your next belay ledge, and layback a few moves to a better stance.... It's about 5.9+, and the gear is good you just step father away from it as you go....
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jun 8, 2007 rating: 5.9+
Bring at least one #4 BD camalot for the flake, you can walk it while you climb. Less than a #4 and you'll be running it out, although it is easy ground...
Concerning the high traverse: This weekend, 7/6/07, I watched someone pull off the large rock which I believe is the undercling that Lee describes, making this high traverse significantly harder than 5.9.
wow if it is indeed the same hold i was talking about that is both sad and scary... i will have to take a look at some point... if anyone has more info please post it...
We were climbing Recompense when another party started up behind us, going for the Recom-Beast variation. From the beginning of 3rd pitch belay we had a clear view of the leader grabbing (undercling) the tv-sized hold, saying it moved when he touched it. he grabbed it again and that was all it took to send it flying down. We saw them the next day in EMS and they said you can see the gashes in the trail and it damaged some trees. They also said they found the rock and placed it by the trail for display. They said the lower traverse is still possible, but that high traverse is now a much harder option. They had to bail after the rock went down. Let me know if you have any more questions, yes its sad, seemed like a great climb!
17 May 2008 - I added a picture to the photo section of where the flake used to be. Upon noting the missing under cling, I opted for the low traverse...which sucks.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 18, 2008 rating: 5.9+
I happen to like the step across into the abyss on the low traverse, it gives the climb a sense of 'Oh shit, I think I might blow this'
Although I do think that losing that flake makes the climb a little less fun.
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