The North End

BETA PHOTO: The north end (right side) on a spring day....

Description 

The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.

Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect “Hot Henry”…

Getting There 

Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.

Featured Route For The North End

They Died Laughing 5.9  New Hampshire : Cathedral Ledge : The North End

This one pitch classic follows a beautiful finger and hand crack exiting a triangle shaped hole in the rock. It is one of the best 5.9 finger/hand cracks that you will lay your hands on. ...[more]

Add Photo Photos of The North End

BETA PHOTO: The far left side of the north end.... The obvious...