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The Mordor Wall
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Mines of Moria 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a C2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a C2 [details]
FA: Joe Cote, John Porter, and Paul Ross - May 8, 1972
Page Views: 4,047
Submitted By: nhclimber on Sep 9, 2009

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Paul Ross leading pitch two on the First Ascent.Ma...


Boulder up a low slopping ledge to the start of a shallow right facing corner. Easy aid up bolts and pins to a thin placement then up a nice corner to a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of a ledge, skip this and move right to another anchor next to a large flake. Up the flake to a bolt ladder, some of these bad boys are from the FA and suck. But a couple were replaced 2 years ago. Follow the bolt ladder to a flake and this to a corner and the belay. The third pitch starts up the same crack system to a bolt on the left, clip this and lower way down and left to a large corner system which is easily climb up to you can clip some fixed heads and gain the ledge under the bridge. A great alternative that is the best way to go in the winter is straight up from the bolt following a great A2 crack and joins the regular route at the heads. The bridge it's straight forward and you know exactly where to go, but it is gut busting awkward. Bring the big guns for this one. The crux is going through the flare into the roof proper. Follow the roof and round the corner to another set of bolted anchors. Now traverse off left following a ledgy bushy traverse ledge.


Maybe 50' to the left of the Pendulum tree, RIP.


Standard clean aid rack, 2-4, 2-5, 1-6.

Photos of Mines of Moria Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch of Mines...
Second pitch of Mines...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Cote following P2 FA. Mines of Moria !972
Joe Cote following P2 FA. Mines of Moria !972
Rock Climbing Photo: John Porter on the first ascent 1972
John Porter on the first ascent 1972
Rock Climbing Photo: Another of Paul Ross on FA second pitch
Another of Paul Ross on FA second pitch

Comments on Mines of Moria Add Comment
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By nooky brown
Sep 9, 2009

Nice one, keep the routes coming.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 10, 2009

Of course you look at the one that I didn't get to finish! Thanks.
By nooky brown
Sep 10, 2009

Got to keep you guys on your toes!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009

A lot of this route is free with some of the worst fixed gear on the cliff. Tim ?
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 30, 2009

I think that only the second pitch didn't go, he sent the first pitch as part of Highway 61. Which then finishes up the A4 route that crazy dave did 7-8 years ago. That's a great aid line.
By HugoD
Jun 13, 2013

I'm planning to climb this route in two days. Does anyone know if a portaledge is required (i.e. how big are the ledges?)

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