Bombardment shares p1 with Pleasant Street, a quick test of wits on a wandering, run-out 5.6 slab that terminates at a large ant-eaten oak on a slanting ledge below an overlap. Start p2 by stepping up and right over the overlap. The p2 crack climbing is an easily protected and fun place to learn jams and ween yourself off of the plentiful face features for footholds.
Location
Starts at the far left end of the lower left slabs, at a short headwall. From atop the first ledge, step right, protect, and follow the white dike to the right side of the ramp. From the top of the route, move north (right) about 40 feet to rap anchors, continue to top on any number of routes, or walk left along base of cliff until you can round the corner into the woods and to the top (about 10 minutes to walk off).
Protection
P1 is considered R/X, but can be protected reasonably with double ropes. P2 protects very well with nuts and small-to-medium cams.
Due to my own stupidity I ended up having to leap frog my last two cam placements for the last 30 or so feet of the crack on pitch two. This is my way of suggesting that people bring two number 1, and 2 Camalots. Bolder climbers than me will probably say that it's not necessary but I like my gear. The jams are great though so reusing pieces or running it out are both valid options.
i would recomend conserving gear rather than bringing extras, like i know there is a good .75 cam spot and some good large nuts... but do as you wish and have fun...
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Dec 28, 2008 rating: 5.8+
How ever you do this route, it is awesome, I climbed it with Jim Shim and it was my first Conway experience, what a great first route in Conway...
By Adam Winters Administrator From: Bishop, CA Feb 12, 2009
Almost bought the farm free-soloing this thing years ago with a buddy. There was a party gearing up at the base when we arrived, and being the impatient young men that we were, my friend looked at me and calmly asked "should we just go for it?". Slightly puzzled I answered, "sure man, after you". So we started up, politely stepping past the shocked party. The slab went down easily as that's a no-fall-zone anyways. The second pitch crack felt great and i felt solid, just purely enjoying the moves. We had done it at least a dozen times on a rope, but i panicked at the top where you have to step right out of the crack on those polished edges. My friend had already topped out and there i was, like a frightened deer on an ice rink, chalking up and feeling the right hold, stepping up on the sloping right foot- then backing back down to the security of the crack. After a terrifying few minutes, and picturing myself tumbling down the slab, I yelled at the top of my lungs "IT'S ONLY 5.8, COME ON!!!". So I pulled it together and finally went for it, committing to the right foot, stepping up and gaining the finger crack above to the huge ledge. One of the scariest moments in my life. Just goes to show how things change when you eliminate the cord!
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Feb 12, 2009 rating: 5.8+
Adam i know the feeling i scared myself on a 5.3 the one and only solo i will ever do...
thanks for sharing the story... there are so many stories like that out there and so few climbers die from it... Maybe that says something about survival instincts... im glad you lived...
Does anyone know the grade and name of the three bolt slab climb that can be find going up to the 2nd pitch of Bombardment & Pleasant St? I know to the right is the normal 5.6 start to each of those climbs just wondering what the other is...
By nhclimber From: Nottingham, NH Aug 31, 2009 rating: 5.8
It's a newer George Hurley line, I don't know anybody who's done it yet. It seems kinda random, but hey, the man knows his routes.
It is a little Random and from what I've heard from another climbing friend of mine it's meant to be a more fitting start to Ventilator... I made the first bolt and the first moves up to the second bolt with ease after that I had to aid the route up to the crack below the oak tree...
Something I'll try again on a cooler day then the day I tried it...
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