This climb is one of those that the first time you look at it it makes you feel like you must climb it.... It speaks to you and draws you in. That is good and bad; good in that, that means it is a stellar route (and it won't let you down), bad because it can draw you in when you are not ready.... There have been a few injuries on this climb over the past few year due to people getting pumped, stuffing in less than optimal gear, and then falling from the powerful pumpy layback crux.... It's a great climb, so by all means climb it, but be sure to take the time to make every piece count.... There is good gear all the way. but it can be tough to see, since the crack is at your knees much of the time....
Pitch 1: (5.6) Climb the right leaning crack off of the ledge. Hand and fist size for the most part.... To a small belay stance to the right of the crack.... Build an anchor in the crack....
Pitch 2: (5.9) Continue along the crack using face holds when they present themselves (it is possible in a few spots to step down and right to get a good view of your placement, and the climbing to come). The crux comes as a tough, burly layback as the crack steepens, take the time to protect well.... After that you get to a stance below a final crack, the original line went right around easy climbing to the ledge, but if you want another 5.9 crux then fire the crack straight up to the ledge.... Belay in a crack on the ledge....
Pitch 3: (5.6) Head up the cracks past a pin to more easy climbing and in to the woods at the top.... Belay from trees.... Hike off, or hitch a ride....
Location
A very obvious, 100+ foot long, right-leaning crack.... Situated right above the lower, left wall, so Bombardment (5.8) or Fun House (5.7) are logical starts to approach this climb....
There are plenty of great nut placements before the crux on pitch two, though you have to lean over to see them. Practice cam conservation for the crux.
Barber Wall
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