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Barber Wall
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Book of Solemnity, The 
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Lichen Delight 
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Upper Refuse 

Lichen Delight 

5.11a

   

FA: i need to look it up i think it was Hot Henry...
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 216 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 8, 2007


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Description 

Wow... What a climb... First I'll say this...
Climb it!... It rules...
Cathedral 5.11 crack climbing at its best, this is a great way to break in to 5.11 climbing at Cathedral, though its not soft in the grade it is well protected and as moderate as 5.11s get at this cliff... Much longer than the other classic 5.11a, Airation, as you might guess this one is a test of endurance rather than a few hard moves....

There is an obscure 2nd pitch but most people will rap off from a tree with slings... You can also traverse right to the finish of Retaliation (5.9, the finish however is 5.6)...

Right from Nomad Crack (5.10b) find the left facing corner with a small tree growing out of it low down and a handcrack splitting it... Start from a ledge and do a boulder problem to get up in to the corner... Climb the corner utilizing the hand crack... This part is moderate and really fun but not to be taken lightly... Conserve energy for the crux... The corner ends at a roof... Protect and exit right around the roof/corner to gain a finger crack... Follow discontinuing wide finger cracks and not too good jams up and left to a final awkward crack at the top (throughout this section finding the right feet is important to convince your hands that the jams are good)...
At the top move right to belay from a tree ledge...

Writing this description just made me want to run out and climb it again...


Location 

Walk right from Nomad Crack (5.10b) on the big tree covered ledge... Look for the sweet hand crack in the left facing corner... Start from the ledge below the corner...


Protection 

Standard rack... Maybe bring extra hand sized cams for the first half, the top takes nuts and small cams...