Me leading black lung right before the really fun ...
Description
If this route would just go on forever, my life would be complete. The flow of movement and aesthetics on this climb are great. The only problem is the it's only 100ft long. For a great climb of a consistent grade, climb Bombardment(5.8) to Black Lung, to Final Gesture (5.8), an awesome link up.
For Black Lung, start up easy ground. It's maybe 5.6 for the first 2/3 of the route. Follow cracks and jugs to a pretty right-facing corner/crack. Move through a technical crux, which consists of 5.8 jamming and finding the somewhat hard to locate feet (mostly out right). This will leave you at the first belay on Upper Refuse (5.5).
Belay from here, or run all the way to the top of Refuse with a stretch of a 60m rope. It's also possible to finish up Final Gesture which is a fave of mine.
Location
Black Lung is on the far right hand side of the Barber Wall Ledge--just right of the ramp start of Upper Refuse and left of the Book of Solemnity.
This route is quite good and well protected but, PLEASE place gear near the top , I have seen several whips and some injuries when leaders rush the end and don't place gear.
This is a great route. Another fun link-up of sorts is Bombardment (5.8) to Black Lung (5.8) to Upper Refuse (5.5), it is a lot of fun, there is a little "wandering" to get to each route but a very fun way to the top.
Been on this twice and chickened out and hung both times before easily pulling the crux.
My advice is to protect the crux from the stance. Then,do as I say, not as I do. Sack up and pull the move. It's over quickly. I can get a great #3 BD down a little low in the crux and a 1/.75 from the stance. Just make sure to protect it.
EVan
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 9, 2009
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