Greg Jackson in good jams on 'Nut Cracker' 5.9+/5....
Description
Many find this climb to feel more 5.10ish but respect must go to Henry Barber and others for not bitching about grades and leading it with just nuts.
This beautiful crack ranges from fingers to wide hands and is stellar from top to bottom. The crux comes at about the 1/3 mark and involves thin fingers and/or long reaches to good locks. Many folks find the route to be a pumpy one If you are pumped at the top, the last moves of the route will feel a bit cruxy too.
Location
This is the farthest left perfect crack climb at the Barber Wall.
Protection
Lots of nuts (hence the name) and cams for the new-schoolers.
Actually, the new-schoolers comment is just for history. Do bring cams too.
Make sure to bring a #3 or #3.5 if its your first time on the route.
I dont know about "by FAR" but its a contender for sure... Chicken Delight is my fave in this section (again, other than Lichen Delight)... any other votes?
This will test your jamming technique. Tape up if jamming is not your specialty. The rock is very rough. You can easily spot those who have done battle with nutcracker by looking at their hands.
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