This gorgeous line starts to the right of the start of upper refuse and black lung.
P1- 5.10a- 80'- climb the dihedral past two pins and traverse under the roof (crux) and up to a two bolt belay ledge on the right hand face.
P2- 5.10a- 120'- step left off the belay ledge and continue up the crack system until it ends. traverse left onto a small ledge (crux), and follow over to the top section of upper refuse. Belay from the top of upper refuse. if you are not using double ropes, do nt place any gear on or after the traverse. if you do, your second could take a nasty swing.
If this is your max difficulty, consider top-roping it first. It has a strange slab move traversing under the roof. The second pitch has and equally strange step down into nothing.
I say grab a good belayer (and double ropes for the second pitch) and just fire it, the gear is good on the 1st pitch crux...and the second pitch crux has good gear, it's just the terror-inducing 5.2 move that ladd made reference to that's a scary one, but it's not hard at all....
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 11, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Terror inducing indeed... But yes, truly it is barely 5th class
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 29, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I did this route again this past Saturday 5.26.07
That step down is probably only 4th class, but it does offer a keen pucker. Especially since I ran together the two pitches, and didn't place pro in the undercling like I usually do...oops.
Barber Wall
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