This route is notoriusly hard to protect, not because there are no placements but because it is very hard to fight the barn-door and see the placements. Also, make sure your belayer is anchored to one of the trees around the base of the climb. If it is within your ethics...place protection from the ground. Crux lies about 8 feet above ledge (blue Alien to protect crux in small slot out left (invisible)) After crux place #1-#2 in the obvious hand sized crack and mantle the mini ledge follow the super lichen covered crack system to the top. Tree anchor.
Location
This route lies driectly right of Pine tree Eliminate. Belay from below a VW-beatle-sized boulder.
By Zed From: Gotham City Oct 7, 2007 rating: 5.11c
I remember this route. One of Jimmy Dunn's. I don't remember it being PG13. I thought it was pretty well protected, and had a pin at the crux.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 5, 2007
There is no pin at the crux now, just a blue alien placement in the old pin scar, but you can't see it and there is definitly a bad spot where the placement is not good, hence the PG13 because your gear coule be bad and you wouldn't have a clue.
Also the upper section is so lichen covered and unprotectable, a fall from up there would be disasterous.
By Zed From: Gotham City Nov 9, 2007 rating: 5.11c
Maybe someone should replace the missing pin with another pin.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 9, 2007
It might have been considered at some point by the crew up in North Conway, althought since it hasn't so far and the route is so infrequently climbed I don't see that happening. Personally I like that this climb is so commiting because of that placement, I like it without a pin and I won't be adding a pin there.
Sure this was one of James' favorite's but he did not do the ffa. Nigel Shepperd and Bill Wayman from the UK were pointed at the route by Ed Webster in 78. agreed though ,much more committing w/o the pin
Airation Buttress
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