Sam Todzia and Nuria Anguita-Bates TRing the last ...
Description
This is one of my favorite climbs I've ever done.... So much exposure, an intricate sequence, and good protection (at the crux, anyway) make it practically perfect in every way.... Though 5.11b may seem a low grade by modern standards, you will find that you will work for this one both mentally and physically....
Pitch 1: From the anchor at the top of the Saigon's, head up and left past a bolt, run it out a little farther left to another bolt clip this with a long runner, and run it out up and right to gain more bolts that are closer together (the runouts at the base are what keeps this route from being a sport climb). It may be 5.8R in parts.... An interesting sub-crux will be tricky though finding the crimps and high stepping will get you through...The corner above to the mantel at the anchor is the true crux, and it might take a while to work it out...But the falls are safe though airy.
Pitch 2: Up the slab (5.10b) past drilled pins, then break left in to a crack that leads to a notch to finish.... Build a belay at the top in a hand-size crack....
Location
Just above the anchor for Miss Saigon...through the roof via a nice corner....
Protection
Pitch one: mostly bolts, so bring draws and at least one long sling...Maybe a TCU as you leave the ledge...two bolt anchor.... Pitch two: 2 drilled pins then trad gear.... Bring draws and a standard rack....
The actual original Camber goes right from the belay towards a tree and then finishes above. The P2 described is Reverse Camber, done originally by Webster around 1980. You can also stay out of the crack at the top (TR) at around 11C. Room With A View is also right in front of you and although a bit runout, it is a good TR at 11D.
Airation Buttress
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