Duet Direct is a stout and neglected two-pitch route near the popular one pitch climbs of Slow and Easy and Sticky Fingers. The first pitch is an excellent warm up for the business on the second pitch. Here, expect Devil's Tower-style stemming and Yosemite quality granite. I'm surprised that this excellent and well-protected route doesn't get more traffic.
Pitch 1 (5.8, 100ft): Climb up flaky but seemingly sold flake systems, using a combination of techniques. This pitch is fun and leads to a comfortable stance and a belay/rap station.
Pitch 2 (5.10+ 100ft): Climb the steep corner by stemming, jamming, and laybacking--sometimes using all three techniques at once. This pitch is very well protected and given the steep angle and the solid, clean rock, it's easy to forget you're at Cannon. Finish the route at a two bolt anchor on a perfect ledge.
Descent: Rap the route making either one full 60M (two-rope) rap from the second belay ledge. It's also possible to do two raps with a single 60M.
Location
Duet Direct climbs up the left side of Duet Buttress, which is located left of the central wall and right of the Black Dike area. It is identified by the soaring, steep, and clean dihedral on the second pitch.
Protection
Cannon rack plus doubles in the mid-sizes (from yellow Alien through yellow Camalot), 60M rope, helmet, calves of steel.
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