Moby Grape is the second most popular route on Cannon, behind the Whitney Gilman. It is a classic 5.8 wall climb, comparable to Nutcracker in Yosemite or to Guide's Wall in the Tetons. Until the final two pitches, the rock is as good as granite gets.
The Conn buttress borders the right side of the big wall section and Moby Grape climbs up the center of this buttress. Though the original first pitch climbed the left corner of the buttress, Reppy's Crack, a splitter in the truest sense of the word, has become the pitch of choice.
Pitch 1, (Reppy's Crack) 5.8: Climb the obvious splitter crack. This has been called the best hand crack in New Hampshire. Though more of a fist crack, Reppy's requires jamming skills because there are no face holds. Follow the crack to easier rock and climb to the end of your rope.
Pitch 2, (The Triangular Roof) 5.8: This is the technical crux of the route. Climb up to and over the prominent triangular roof using hand jams. This pitch ends at a good ledge.
Pitch 3: Move right around the corner on less than ideal rock. Belay near the base of the unmistakable flake.
Pitch 4, (The Finger of Fate) 5.8: Climb runout rock up to the flake. This flake looks dubiously connected to the cliff but is actually pretty solid. Either chimney up the left side of the flake or hand traverse (campus if you dare) along the right side. Belay on a scruffy ledge. It is possible to rappel from here with two ropes.
Pitch 5: The climbing degrades into classic Cannon rockaneering. Meander around short walls and aim for a belay near the left side of a huge fallen pillar.
Pitch 6, 5.8: Climb the awkward corner in the left side of the pillar to a roof. Exit the corner on the right and head to the top.
Descent: At the top of the cliff, head right toward the top of the now defunct Old Man. Follow the waterslide, a cemented water diversion apparatus (that obviously didn't work) downhill until a trail can be picked up. It is possible to head right at the bottom of the cliff to get back to the base, or head straight to go back to the parking lot.
Protection
Standard alpine rock rack. Reppy's Crack takes #3 and #3.5 Camalots. Two ropes are required for rappels. Don't forget your helmet--this is Cannon after all.
By Andy Kowles From: Boulder, CO Jun 25, 2007 rating: 5.8
Led the whole thing yesterday and wow, what a wild climb! A little bit of everything on this one, along with good pro. Doubles in the #2-3 Camalot range are nice.
The first few pitches are sweet of course, but do the whole thing if you can, there are enjoyable moves all the way up, and the last 5.8 moves (P6 in route description) are wicked fun too. There are also some fun 5.5-ish cracks and a roof on the last pitch(es).
alpine rock rack? i was pleased to have a double set of cams, including blue aliens, and if you're not solid on straight-in hands and wide hands then youll want extra #2 and #3 camalots.
great route. every pitch was interesting and it was climbing all the way to the top. double ropes are great on this route.
Cannon Cliff
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