Union Jack 

FA:  Paul Ross, Ben and Marion Wintringham, Micheal Hartrick, Al Rubin Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Views: 364 page views Submitted By: John Peterson on Aug 24, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Just left of Vertigo is another excellent route.

Locate the left facing flake of P2 to determine the location of the route.

P1: (5.6) Up a crack and then left (100')

P2: (5.9) This is the crux - go delicately up and left, aiming for a finger crack / layback that ends in a bulge just below the belay ledge. Exciting! (100')

P3: (5.8) Find an excellent flake up and right from the belay - this leads up about 120' to an excellent ledge below an ominous looking cave / overhang.

Although the guidebook has more pitches (5.7 and then easier), we rapped at this point - the chimney above didn't look very inviting.

Not sure if you can rap on a single 60m rope - we needed 2 50s to get down.

Not as much good climbing as Vertigo but well worth doing.

Location 

About 15' left of Vertigo.

Protection 

An extra finger sized cam or two might be nice.