Rusty Reno on the first crux during the first asce...
Description
This route has three distinct cruxes. The first twenty feet involve sustained 5.11 micro-edging (see picture) with good protection. After moving left to the third bolt, the route goes up a shallow groove with a difficult mantle to clip the next bolt. (I took a 40 foot fall on this move on the first ascent!) A short traverse right brings the leader to the crux -- a sequence of pure friction moves that seem impossible. (Full disclosure: Paul, Tom, and I gave the crux about 100 tries before Tom finally succeeded.)
This is a genuine test piece -- old school 5.12 thin face with bolts put in on the lead. My old buddies in North Conway have told me that the young Turks who are tearing up the 5.14 sport routes think it is impossible, and they don't believe that this route was ever led. Rest assured gym rats, it was.
Location
The route climbs past a series of bolts just left of Reppy's Crack
Protection
Bolts. Bring some pro for the easy final section. Shares a rap anchor with Reppy's Crack.
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