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Cannon Cliff

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Cannon Cliff


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Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 11, 2006
Administrator: Jay Knower
Elevation: 4,100 feet
Latitude: 44.1568  Longitude: -71.6986 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
Views: 50,129 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

a full-moon lit canon.


Description 

Cannon Cliff is the tallest and most respected cliff in New England. The climbs are long, the weather is bad, and the rock is exfoliating. Every climber who heads up to do a route on Cannon understands that the undertaking is a considerable one.

This is not to say that the routes are bad, however. The popular routes ascend pristine granite and can be over ten pitches long. Just don't stray from your chosen route, as you may find yourself in one of Cannon's many heavily eroded vertical gullies.

Rockfall is a common occurance on the cliff. The Old Man, a natural outline of a face in the rock and New Hampshire's famous state symbol, fell off the cliff a few years back. An entire pitch, the Whaleback Crack, parted from the face in the 1990's and created a swath of fresh talus at the base.

Located in Franconia Notch, the cliff faces East and many a climber has been caught unawares by fast-moving storms coming from the West. Plus, a long talus approach leads to the base and can be heinous if the talus is wet or snow covered.

Do not let the above description dissuade you. Cannon offers the chance for the experienced climber to find alpine serenity on a remote, unforgiving, and challenging wall.


Getting There 

All roads lead to Interstate 93 and I-93 runs through Franconia Notch. The big cliff is on the west side of the road. You can't possibly miss it.

The parking area is on the north end of the cliff. It is only possible to access the lot from the southbound side of 93. If you are coming from the south, head past the lot and get off on the next exit (the Tramway exit). From here, reverse directions and head south into the lot.


Winter Climbing 

For descriptions of Cannon's excellent winter climbs, including the super-classic Black Dike, see Cannon Ice Climbs.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cannon Cliff:
Lakeview   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III   
Whitney Gilman Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II   
Moby Grape   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III   
Slow and Easy   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Union Jack   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   
Vertigo   5.9 A0 R     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   
Sticky Fingers   5.10     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 100 feet   
VMC direct direct   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV   
Duet Direct   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Browse More Classics in Cannon Cliff

Featured Route For Cannon Cliff
Brian reaching for the next lock, praying that its a good one...

Sticky Fingers 5.10  NH : Cannon Cliff
An awesome finger crack makes the first pitch a must do if you climb hard 5.10 cracks... The second pitch is a hard slab and I'm sure its fun for someone... OK the second pitch is good,it just made me whimper...I've listed this route as simply 5.10 because I've heard different reports on the grade from different sources... I felt like the crack was around 5.10b/c and the second pitch was hard 5.10d... However from that you may gather that i love ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Cannon Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Cannon Mountain (Photo: Brian Aitken)

Cannon Mountain (Photo: Brian Aitken)

a shot from the adjecent peak of hay stack

a shot from the adjecent peak of hay stack

Cannon Cliff from Mount Lafayette. The stark Whitney Gilman Ridge can be seen on the left side.

Cannon Cliff from Mount Lafayette. The stark Whitn...

Cannon, and its talus field, from afar.

Cannon, and its talus field, from afar.

The central wall of Cannon

The central wall of Cannon

This is the view looking north from high up on the Whitney-Gilman ridge... pretty.... Eagle cliff is in the back ground....

This is the view looking north from high up on the...

looking south from the top of Slow and Easy at the Whitney-Gilman ridge...

looking south from the top of Slow and Easy at the...

Cannon Cliff route-finding setback

Cannon Cliff route-finding setback

cannon

cannon

The "new" man on the mountain... Cromagnum Man? (Photo: Brian Aitken)

The "new" man on the mountain... Cromagnum Man? (P...

Long exposure at night, 2001.

Long exposure at night, 2001.

Whitney Gilman with the moon over top. A beautiful day in September.

Whitney Gilman with the moon over top. A beautiful...

lee looking up at the black dike in fat conditions

lee looking up at the black dike in fat conditions...

summer morning canon

summer morning canon

canon in the summer

canon in the summer

Nothing in NH beats Cannon exposure... This is mike above the roof pitch on Moby Grape...

Nothing in NH beats Cannon exposure... This is mik...

P.Ross on the bivy ledge during first ascent of Labyrinth Wall July 1971

P.Ross on the bivy ledge during first ascent of La...

First ascent of The Ghost. July 1971

First ascent of The Ghost. July 1971


Comments on Cannon Cliff Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 12, 2007

Check out the article in Alpinist vol. 21

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 14, 2007

FA of Mean Streak

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 15, 2009

Basilisk has scanned an old guidebook for Cannon. You can download it here.

By Attila Szabo
Apr 8, 2009

Cannon Mt Indeed challenging, but once you reach the summit great views!! Rock slabs are AWESOME!

By alpineninja
From: Sacramento, CA
May 5, 2009

why can't i favorite this area?

By burlap submariner
Sep 11, 2009

cannon will kill you dead.