Sunny and Buggy- but it gets better up high. I would not climb here in the spring. Good rock overall and some really WILD climbs. Nightflyer, Sacred Space and of course Heavy Weather Sailing are really out there !!! This is a complicated cliff and finding routes can be tough, hang in there, they are worth it !
Getting There
South of Conway Village a couple of miles to the junction off #113 and #16. On the left is Coleman ? sand and gravel works, the cliff is at the south end of these pits, it can also be viewed from #113.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Band M:
I knew the left side climbs under the butcher block stayed dry, but I was out there this past saturday (torrential downpour) expecting the worst and ended up with the best. All five climbs were dry enough to get on and have fun with.
JUST AS A WARNING!!!!! The sand and gravel company has placed a new gate at band m before the old gate/parking area, its pretty wise to park as far out of the road as possible when climbing there. If possible stick to climbing there on weekends when the gravel pit is closed.