Handy Cap Direct 

FA:  John Mallery and Chris Rowens 1989 Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.12 [details] Length:  60 feet Views: 48 page views Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 16, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

A cool sport route that is a bit out of place (but welcome) at this mostly moderate trad crag... Definitely worth doing...

Stick clip the first bolt... The real crux is the first 10 feet of climbing which is powerful and technical on a series of undercling crimps... The first boulder problem ends at a jug by the 2nd bolt another move or 2 gains you a rest where you can wedge yourself in the corner to catch your breath... Gastone and sidepull your way up to another good hold, set up, and make a big move to a good hold at the top of the corner... Exiting the corner is awkward as you shift from steep corner climbing to a few slaby moves... Here you might want to place a nut or two before heading up at about 5.8 and scramble up the the 2 bolt anchor...

Location 

To the right of Brass Balls(5.8) and left of Special Olympics(5.10c) look for a bolt line going up a steep wall and in to a corner...

Protection 

3 bolts protect the hardest moves but a couple small nuts above would keep the top section from becoming R rated...

An anchor about halfway up the cliff marks the end of the route but due to a lack of rap rings you will have to continue to the top of the cliff on moderate rock...