Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Artist's Bluff
Show routes:
Select route...
Artist's Arete 
Brass Balls 
Handy Cap Direct 
Little Monalisa 
Right Side Route 
Special Olympics 
Standard Direct 
Standard Route 
Standard Route 5.10 variation 
Standard route 5.7 variation 

Brass Balls 

5.8

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 72 page views

Submitted By: Brian Aitken on Jan 17, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

The crux is halfway through the climb at the end of the crimpy traverse, reach up high if I recall correctly and then it's all over - run up to the top.
The rock quality is excellent, well worth doing.


Location 

Walk up the base to a chimney which is often wet. Climb the chimney (5.6) then begin traversing right - you get some good exposure and good views. You can walk off.


Protection 

Small rack, save some small stuff for the traverse.



Add Comment Comments on Brass Balls
Show which comments
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 15, 2008

Pitch 1: Climb the corner/chimney with some awkward but not too hard climbing eventually exiting right to the anchor on the tree...

Pitch 2: climb up easily then traverse right on progressivly smaller holds and gear until you can surmount the slab above... Climb easy rock above to a thread anchor...

Pitch 3: climb up moderate rock tou the top...

You can combine pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 but watch rope drag...
A blue TCU and a couple small nuts will help protect the traverse...