|7,904 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
Like full-on hands? This is the route for you!
Tackle the hand jamming crack, avoiding the sucker jugs on the right and blasting through the tight-hands crux to easier ground up top.
Stiff at the grade for East Coast cracks, we just aren't used to splitters.
Start just right of wooden fence at obvious hand splitter running 2/3 way up the wall
Takes super solid #2 BD cams.
New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite. (Jeff ne...
Michael Martin highstepping his way through the la...
First 5.9 Trad Lead.
John jamming crack on New Yosemite (5.9) at the Ju...
Enjoying the jams on a beautiful fall day.
John leading New Yosemite
Matt jamming past the crux
The quintessential NY shot.
|By Brian Adzima|
Apr 24, 2007
Short crux section (two moves?). Its a cool climb in that it forces some 5.9 jamming. I have seen it shut down at least 2 5.12 gym rats and seen it cruised by people that could barely climb 5.10-
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Will feel pretty damn soft if you have any jamming technique!
From: Durango, CO
Dec 27, 2008
Well, no it is not stiff for the grade. Maybe soft, but fair at 5.9. It's a great climb, only a little too short. OK, a lot too short. Good crag if you like cracks.
|By Nate Miller|
From: Chicago, IL
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Beautiful splitter, just too short. I thought it was soft for the grade, as long as you know how to jam and your hands aren't too big.
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
If you want to avoid a line, go at a down-time (early morning or late afternoon) or during the week.
Aug 17, 2010
You definitely want to take as many #2 Black Diamond cams as you have as well as medium sized nuts. Pro is bomber. Excellent climb.
Sep 7, 2010
Super easy for someone who likes climbing cracks; soft for the grade.
|By Alan Howell|
May 31, 2012
Ultra classic and surprisingly deceptive at the crux. The hardest part of the route is placing the gear so you aren't stepping on your rope and placing it exactly where you need to jam. Definitely tough for those who don't climb hand cracks often and as mentioned above, the sucker face holds will mess up your flow. The gear is much more #1 (red Camalot) size than #2's, but bring both. I could have placed 3-4 #1's on the first half to make it easier instead of back cleaning the 2's. A couple smaller units work well up high.