Follow the 2" sized crack through a bulge and sequential jams until you reach a comfortable rest ledge. From here, follow much easier climbing on generous holds to the anchor.
Start just right of wooden fence at obvious hand splitter running 2/3 way up the wall
Multiples of #1 and #2 camalot sizes. A #3 may be helpful. After the ledge rest, smaller gear is available as well. Bolted anchor.
Fun lead on a stellar hand crack
Karate-chopping my balding way up New Yosemite. Ti...
New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite. (Jeff ne...
Michael Martin highstepping his way through the la...
Matt jamming past the crux
The quintessential NY shot.
John jamming crack on New Yosemite (5.9) at the Ju...
Enjoying the jams on a beautiful fall day.
BETA PHOTO: Looking at New Yosemite from the base.
John leading New Yosemite
Working that jamming magic!
By Andrew G
5 days ago
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Great crack to learn jamming on. The bottom will be a little wide, especially if you've got smaller hands, but it quickly narrows down just a bit to pretty much perfect hands.
Also: beware the sucker jug out left. Getting back into the crack from it is a bitch.