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Junkyard Wall
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New Yosemite T,TR 
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Yew Nosemite T 

New Yosemite 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Erkstine, Horton '79
Page Views: 9,346
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (123)
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Mike getting up New Yosemite for the first time

Description 

Like full-on hands? This is the route for you!
Tackle the hand jamming crack, avoiding the sucker jugs on the right and blasting through the tight-hands crux to easier ground up top.


Stiff at the grade for East Coast cracks, we just aren't used to splitters.


Location 

Start just right of wooden fence at obvious hand splitter running 2/3 way up the wall


Protection 

Takes super solid #2 BD cams.



Photos of New Yosemite Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying the jams on a beautiful fall day.
Enjoying the jams on a beautiful fall day.
New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite. (Jeff nearing the crux.)
New Yosemite (5.9), a Junk Yard favorite. (Jeff ne...
Matt jamming past the crux
Matt jamming past the crux
Michael Martin highstepping his way through the last part of the crux of this route.
Michael Martin highstepping his way through the la...
John jamming crack on New Yosemite (5.9) at the Junkyard in the New River Gorge, WV. May 2010. <a href='http://danallardphoto.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >danallardphoto.com</a>
John jamming crack on New Yosemite (5.9) at the Ju...
start
start
John leading New Yosemite
John leading New Yosemite
First 5.9 Trad Lead.
First 5.9 Trad Lead.
The quintessential NY shot.
The quintessential NY shot.
Comments on New Yosemite Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Apr 24, 2007

Short crux section (two moves?). Its a cool climb in that it forces some 5.9 jamming. I have seen it shut down at least 2 5.12 gym rats and seen it cruised by people that could barely climb 5.10-

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Will feel pretty damn soft if you have any jamming technique!

By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Dec 27, 2008

Well, no it is not stiff for the grade. Maybe soft, but fair at 5.9. It's a great climb, only a little too short. OK, a lot too short. Good crag if you like cracks.

By Nate Miller
From: Chicago, IL
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Beautiful splitter, just too short. I thought it was soft for the grade, as long as you know how to jam and your hands aren't too big.

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you want to avoid a line, go at a down-time (early morning or late afternoon) or during the week.

By attila
Aug 17, 2010

You definitely want to take as many #2 Black Diamond cams as you have as well as medium sized nuts. Pro is bomber. Excellent climb.

By Schurman
Sep 7, 2010

Super easy for someone who likes climbing cracks; soft for the grade.

By Alan Howell
May 31, 2012

Ultra classic and surprisingly deceptive at the crux. The hardest part of the route is placing the gear so you aren't stepping on your rope and placing it exactly where you need to jam. Definitely tough for those who don't climb hand cracks often and as mentioned above, the sucker face holds will mess up your flow. The gear is much more #1 (red Camalot) size than #2's, but bring both. I could have placed 3-4 #1's on the first half to make it easier instead of back cleaning the 2's. A couple smaller units work well up high.