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New York Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.9677, -74.4434 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,190,491
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Feb 26, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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J Mo belaying Dan on the FA of Killer Pillar... so...

Description 

Rock Climbing in New York State consists of three main regions: the world-famous Gunks, properly called the Shawangunks; the Adirondacks, a vast state park with dozens of crags scattered across an area the size of Rhode Island; and Moss Island, a small crag near Little Falls. Several other areas exist, e.g. bouldering in Central Park, the Timp in Harriman Park, as well as many places of questionable access and/or worth.

The main rock climbing venues are near the eastern side of the state, so folks out in Rochester, Buffalo, etc. have a tough time of it - they're either traveling a long ways, pumping plastic, sneaking into the Niagara gorge, or driving across the border to climb in Canada.

Ice climbing is a bit more evenly spread out. The Adirondacks holds the most reliable and extensive ice, but the Catskills generally forms a lot of good ice as well, and the Finger Lakes Region boasts a few lesser-known classic lines (many of which, alas, are not legal to ascend).

Alpine climbing is limited to the Adirondacks, though a few Catskill peaks come close. None of the mountains are particularly tall - Mt. Marcy, at 5,344' is the highest - but the weather is capricious and runs the extremes. Winter ascents of the High Peaks can be very serious endeavors, especially when climbing a classic line such as the Trap Dike or Gothics North Face.

Although a small state compared to the big West, travel in NY, especially to its mountainous regions, can be tricky. Public transport is decent within two hours of NYC along the major transport corridors, but off these or farther away, and car rental, good maps, and good luck are required.

The great majority of visitors arrive in New York City; for those who do, the Gunks is a 2 hour bus ride to reach, and is definitely the place to go for rock climbing. The Catskills is a bit farther north, and having a car is almost mandatory, particularly during ice season. The Adirondacks is 4 to 5 hours away, and also requires a car. Moss Island lies along Interstate 90 and busses stop in the neighboring town of Little Falls

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 3.7 miles from here

2,845 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',235],['3 Stars',1002],['2 Stars',1060],['1 Star',418],['Bomb',20]
['<=5.6',510],['5.7',287],['5.8',409],['5.9',290],['5.10',421],['5.11',163],['5.12',73],['5.13',12],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',114],['V2-3',202],['V4-5',76],['V6-7',45],['V8-9',19],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in New York

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New York:
Suction Aid Route   C4 R     Aid, 1388'   New York City : Trump Tower
Gelsa   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 195'   The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge...
Horseman   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   The Trapps : a. The Uberfall
High Exposure   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   The Trapps : i. High E
Shockley's Ceiling   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 275'   The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 210'   The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...
Yellow Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge...
Limelight   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Strictly From Nowhere   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's
Something Interesting   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...
Arrow   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Son of Easy O   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Modern Times   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Ants' Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Trapps : i. High E
MF   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ...
Bonnie's Roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   The Trapps : i. High E
CCK Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 240'   The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Directissima   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   The Trapps : i. High E
Directississima   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   The Trapps : i. High E
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New York

Featured Route For New York
Rock Climbing Photo: Ward Cleaver.

Ward Cleaver 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Typhoon Wall
This route ascends an incredible knife-edged arete. The crux is at the start above the first bolt, and there's another hard move at the top.There's a directional bolt at the top, and a rappel anchor on a tree set back from the edge....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of New York Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.7+ third pitch of Cascading Crystal Kaleidos...
The 5.7+ third pitch of Cascading Crystal Kaleidos...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ann Marie bouldering at Nine corners lake in Adiro...
Ann Marie bouldering at Nine corners lake in Adiro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on pitch #2 of Splashtic - timetoclimb.com
Climber on pitch #2 of Splashtic - timetoclimb.com
Rock Climbing Photo: Try Three Philosophers.  Photo by Blitzo.
Try Three Philosophers. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: I'm the little red dot up top.
I'm the little red dot up top.
Rock Climbing Photo: returning from the Gunks
returning from the Gunks

Comments on New York Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 17, 2006
When ya'll gonna post some Spiders Web stuff???
By trumpeterfrodo
Apr 27, 2007
Someone should post some topos on McKenzie Pond Bouldering in Saranac Lake. I recently moved from the area, but it was my bouldering home. Anyone who has been there knows what a treasure it is! The Dacks are the BEST!
By RobHudson
From: Boulder
May 17, 2007
True True, McKenzie Pond is a hidden treasure when its dry!!
By Mike O
Jul 6, 2007
I like the adirondack's secrets. ;)
By AdamB
From: Chattanooga, TN
Aug 14, 2008
I'll 3rd that McKenzie comment
By Eric Thomson
Jul 29, 2009
There used to be a online guidebook for McKenzie Ponds but I can't find it anymore unfortunately.
By AdamB
From: Chattanooga, TN
Aug 16, 2009
newenglandbouldering.com/media...

there ya go.
By Bronson
From: Estes Park, CO
Feb 10, 2010
Dear Trumpeterfrodo,
I agree with you that McKenzie Pond bouldering is a treasure. There is the guide that Adam mentioned, which gives a nicely detailed map of the boulders and their names. The only incorrection it has is that many of the boulder problem names have been renamed in the early 2000's. Depending on when you began bouldering there, it may be a bit weird reading new names for many of the routes.
Hope you get to go back there and boulder.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Dec 12, 2010
adirondackrock.com is the guidebook for the region

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