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NE Buttress of Chair Peak 
New York Gully 
Red Mountain-SouthWest Ridge 

New York Gully 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c WI3 M5- A1-2 Steep Snow

Type:  Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a WI3 M4 A0 [details]
FA: Not sure
Season: Winter
Page Views: 3,046
Submitted By: Colin Bartholomew on Feb 29, 2012

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On the route.

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This is a fun route for the experienced alpinist. It has assorted elements including mixed, ice and some aid for those who can't climb hard mixed. We did it in 4 long pitches with some simuling with a 70 meter rope. So 5-6 without simuling with a 60 meter rope. The first pitch starts at the obvious gully down from the notch above the gully. Ascend about 200 feet up the gully and ascend the obvious ramp to the left. Belay from the quasi-cave. Ascend up and left for one pitch. Then ascend up and slightly right. The rest of the route follows the obvious weaknesses until you get to a small headwall. This is called a 5.8 crack. I was able to free it with only two moves of aid off fixed gear. The climbing above this is somewhat technical but a relief after the difficult aid moves.


Find the phantom slide and ascend more or less upwards and slightly left. Bear mostly up and somewhat left. Ideally, go with someone who knows the approach or follow a skin track as much of the approach is done through thick trees. As the grade decreases, bear left towards the notch. From the obvious notch, descend probably 200 vertical feet and traverse to the first obvious gully. Ascend roughly 200 vertical feet to the left traverse.


rack to 2-3 inches. knifeblades, 1-4 ice screws depending on conditions. No bolts. Some fixed pitons on the right places. Slings.

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Rock Climbing Photo: A view from the route. Note- this is not the route...
A view from the route. Note- this is not the route...

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