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New Year's Day T 
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New Year's Day 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Craig Clarence on Mar 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Moving through the crux on the 2nd pitch. Photo b...

Description 

This route is located between Are We Ourselves and Grey Cell Green. Start by climbing 10' or so to a bolt at the bottom of a large scoop, then head straight up over a bulging left-facing flake - small cam behind the flake if you trust it. After manteling on top of the flake, clip the pin buried in a seam above (easy to miss). Then diagonal up and right to the anchors atop Grey Cell Green. Start the second pitch by moving up and left to the first bolt on a vague arete, then follow bolts and pins straight up to the top of the formation.

The last bolt has a bail link on it - don't quit now! The moves above the bolt are steep, but a few better-than-expected edges will get you to the final short exit crack.

Fun route that will get better as it cleans up. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

Not quite a sport route - with only one bolt and one pin on the first pitch, some will want a small cam as well. The second pitch is well protected with pins and bolts, although a hand-sized cam can be used to protect the final short exit crack.


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New Year's Day
BETA PHOTO: New Year's Day

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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 6, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb is better than it looks and easily done as one pitch, but the first bolt is a serious eyesore IMO. The upper section is the best with holds appearing when you need them despite appearances from below. Two stars out of five.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Nov 25, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun route. Sunny exposure, though exposed to the winds. We did it in two pitches, but one pitch could work fine. P1 requires gear(bring one set of cams to #3 camalot). P2 has bolts and pins and is safely protected. You'll want a hand-size cam for the final crack to the top. Anchor takes TCU sized cams.

Felt 10c-ish to me, but the grainy feet up high (still cleaning up a bit) might have made it seem harder. Balancy and fun climbing through the upper cruxes.
By Murf
Dec 28, 2008

I've done this route starting on the crack up and right from Grey Cell Green. I think you have a stretch of badish rock this way, and it is done in one pitch. Fun up high and sunny.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I did it in one pitch. The first half kinda sucked. A bit spooky getting to and then past the first pin considering the rock quality and questionable pro. The first bolt does protect a hard move but after that it's pointless. The second half was very good and well protected. It would feel better if that second bolt were 3/8ths.

Next time I would link Gray Cell to New Years.