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New World Order 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,115
Submitted By: Will Hinckley on May 2, 2009
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Description 

Pull the overhanging start to the left of arete and climb the engaging face above.


Location 

The next arete past Bullet the New Sky. Consider stick clipping the first bolt.


Protection 

Bolted with anchors at the top.



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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

This is a great route, but very sustained in my opinion for the 12a grade. If you decide to do the start to the left of the arete, there are a few loose blocks.

By Blake Cash
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

The right side start seemed like the safer and more obvious start. Though a different style than Bullet, their grades are on par with one another. 12b seems appropriate. The big move may be significantly harder if you're shorter.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 12, 2012

Yeah, the right start (quick campus move) was pretty key for me.

By Pascal Ripoche
From: Pittsburgh PA
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Great route. tough start. 12a seems fine to me... if you know the beta. It's a bit hard to read and hard to reverse if you get of sequence.