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New World Order 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Horst 1989
Page Views: 2,058
Submitted By: Will Hinckley on May 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Pull the overhanging start to the left of arete and climb the engaging face above.


The next arete past Bullet the New Sky. Consider stick clipping the first bolt.


7 bolts to bolted anchor.

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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 26, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

A quick complaint before I gush:

I was not impressed with Mr. Horst's bolt-job on this line (I have heard through the grape vine that he did bolt it in a less than ideal way) - nothing personal against him. The third bolt is hard to clip if you are hanging the draws even though there is a good hold lower and if you fall there before clipping (even before you pull slack) you can land on your belayer or deck - I nearly did. I suggest fixing this bolt lower or placing a permadraw there which you can at least grab. Probably the latter since it's a ring bolt. If you lead the 11c to the right you can probably swing around the arĂȘte and clip a long draw to it.

Apart from that it's a fantastic line! Man are the moves cool and super sequential. Screw up one foot placement or hand sequence or lose your focus and you are coming off this thing. Should be a mandatory climb for the grade there.
By bryan brown
From: the 'ham, nc
Oct 20, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Colin may have a point, noting that Eric Horst's bolt jobs are notoriously... Eric Horst-y. I don't recall a huge issue with this bolt's placement, though I'd be a touch worried about placing a permadraw there as folks may do exactly as mentioned- grab it, which always makes things a bit scary.

Bolting issues aside, this has to be one of, if not THE, best face climb at the grade in the gorge. Anyone that's interested really should give it a burn, and strap in for a wild ride.
By Drew Hayes
From: Charlotte, NC
Oct 20, 2015

Man up, grab a small hold, stand tall on an OK foot, and clip that bitch. The second time I got on it, I wised up and had a tall person put the draws in for me.

This is still the best route I've been on so far at Endless. Maybe at the New. Maybe ever.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 21, 2015

First off, leaving any protection in the gorge for more than 24 hours is illegal without consent from NPS. Secondly this route was rebolted by NRAC using glue-ins and placing a fixed draw on any of the bolts is going to become one more thing that NRAC would have to maintain because then people would start lowering off of it if they couldn't do the move.

Sport climbing at the gorge almost always requires a stick clip, and without one of those you run into issues like you have. Either onsight it hanging the draws, (which I've seen many people do), or bolt to bolt it with a stick clip in hand. Otherwise do as Drew said and just climb it. I've seen people fall while trying to clip that bolt and with an attentive belayer you will be fine.
By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 23, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

"First off, leaving any protection in the gorge for more than 24 hours is illegal without consent from NPS"

Does this apply to "project" quickdraws? The ones that have been hanging on Quinsana Plus for weeks come to mind.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 23, 2015

Yes, anything hanging on the rock for longer than 24 hours is technically not legal. Whoever leaves their draws on a route for longer than 24 hours takes the risk of having them poached by another climber or taken down by NPS, and this could cause more issues for the local climbing coalition with their dealings with NPS.

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