Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Snake Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bullet the New Sky S 
Dial 911 S 
Discombobulated S 
Dissonance S 
Legacy S 
Mississippi Burning S 
New World Order S 
Pocket Route S 
Racist, The S 
Rock Lobster T 
S.T.A.N.C. T 
Silent but Deadly S 
Stolen Kisses T 
Sugar Bubbas S 

New World Order 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Horst 1989
Page Views: 1,763
Submitted By: Will Hinckley on May 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Pull the overhanging start to the left of arete and climb the engaging face above. Pretty sandbagged for 12a.

Location 

The next arete past Bullet the New Sky. Consider stick clipping the first bolt.

Protection 

7 bolts to bolted anchor.


Comments on New World Order Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 26, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

A quick complaint before I gush:

I was not impressed with Mr. Horst's bolt-job on this line (I have heard through the grape vine that he did bolt it in a less than ideal way) - nothing personal against him. The third bolt is hard to clip if you are hanging the draws even though there is a good hold lower and if you fall there before clipping (even before you pull slack) you can land on your belayer or deck - I nearly did. I suggest fixing this bolt lower or placing a permadraw there which you can at least grab. Probably the latter since it's a ring bolt. If you lead the 11c to the right you can probably swing around the arÍte and clip a long draw to it.

Apart from that it's a fantastic line! Man are the moves cool and super sequential. Screw up one foot placement or hand sequence or lose your focus and you are coming off this thing. Should be a mandatory climb for the grade there.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!