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New Wave

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air and Pleasant Danger S 
Barking Spiders S 
Black Dog Crack S 
Dark Star S 
Daytripper, The S 
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 
Night Crawler S 
Paradox S 
Retrospade T,S 
Roaring Silence S 
Salley's Alley S 
Sam Spade T 
Schist Another Sport Climb S 
Short Wave S 
Smokestack S 
Strict Scrutiny S 
Ten of Spades S 
Vallee Daze S 
Weevil Knevil S 
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New Wave  

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Page Views: 29,983
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kayte Knower on Nov 26, 2006
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


New Wave is a small sunny cliff up towards the top of Rattlesnake Mountain. The rock on the left side is lighter in color, and more rich in Mica than the rest of Rumney. So, New Wave literally sparkles in the sun. This lighter rock is well featured and well bolted, making Sally's Alley (11c), Weevil Knevil (12a), and Roaring Silence (13b) some of Rumney's most enjoyable routes. Air and Pleasant Danger, a classic 5.8, is an adventurous, exposed line that follows the far left edge of the cliff. The rock on the right side of the cliff offers more fantastic climbing. Dark Star (13c/d), a crimpy technical face on black rock, is a favorite when dry. Ten of Spades, a blunt arete that climbs like sandstone, is one of Rumney's best and most technical 5.10's.

Since New Wave packs so many excellent routes from 5.8 to 5.14 onto one ledge, it's low on elbow space if too many parties are there at one time. Make sure you don't drop any gear, dogs, or children off the edge. It's a long way down.

Getting There 

Follow the trail toward Orange Crush from the second parking lot. Where the trail goes left to Orange Crush, walk up and right. Follow cut steps in a log and a narrow trail up the hill to the left side of New Wave. The blunt arete at the head of the trail is Ace of Spades.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Wave:
Air and Pleasant Danger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Smokestack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport   
Black Dog Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Ten of Spades   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Short Wave   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Sam Spade   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Salley's Alley   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Barking Spiders   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   
Retrospade   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Weevil Knevil   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Vallee Daze   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 75'   
Roaring Silence   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport   
Dark Star   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Strict Scrutiny   5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in New Wave

Featured Route For New Wave
Kayte deep in the layback crack.

Smokestack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  NH : Rumney : New Wave
A wakeup call for sporty sport climbers I'm sure... You will find all kinds of moves on this route that are hard to find elsewhere at Rumney... Thought provoking chimneys,and cracks, even a little off-width technique will come in handy... Most of the bolts are close together but there are a couple that might make someone shaky if they are used to Rumney's close bolts...Start up the chimney, remember that using your feet well will help you conserve Energy for the strenuous moves at the top... As ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of New Wave Slideshow Add Photo
The New Wave map.... please comment if you know th...
BETA PHOTO: The New Wave map.... please comment if you know th...
Waterfall at New Wave.
Waterfall at New Wave.

Comments on New Wave Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2007
Many of the climbs on the left side of this cliff have a belay bolt, use it if your leader isn't solid at the grade(just remember to not keep you leash too tight).
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 3, 2009
Does anyone know what the routes are to the right of 10 of Spades? you know the ones right by the trail to Kennel Wall.... i've climbed them but i don't know names, grades and order of the ones that aren't in the book...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 4, 2009
The internetz have told me that they might be:

Night Crawler - 5.9 (Balancey slab moves)
Schist Another Crack - 5.7 (trad gear to tree)

... but maybe someone who knows what they're talking about can confirm :)
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 4, 2009
thanks jeff but i think those are the ones in the old book.... there are now 3 bolted routes here im not sure if one is the 5.7 trad route thats been retroed... but i dont think so... anyway, thanks for your help and i guess we will keep researching, then i can finish my New Wave map :)
By Hannah W
Aug 15, 2010
I found an extendo draw with blue/black webbing, a purple petzl spirit carabiner on one end and a yellow black diamond carabiner on the other end at new wave yesterday. Please let me know if it's yours and I will try to get it back to you.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Aug 29, 2014
Does anyone know what's up with those anchors between Sally's Alley and Black Dog Crack? They're up and right of the Sally's Alley anchors on a steep face right below the top. Thanks!
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