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Glenn getting reacquainted with his yet to be name...
Twin cracks after the roof that leads you up the slab to the anchors. You can see that the starting dihedral was a little slimy that day, but surprisingly it had no affect on the climb. By the way, I just made up the name of this climb- I'll change it when its officially named.
Mostly small cams and wires, with a few larger pieces for the bottom half/roof (size 3 cam at the biggest.) Anchors at top.
By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 15, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
The route is called New Vector and shares a common start and anchor with the finger crack route to its left - Fractured Fairytale. Bring RPs and small TCUs for the technical and sustained, upper, tips crack section. The ledge at the first roof has a really sharp edge, be sure & place a directional above it for seconding/toproping.
By Moritz B.
Oct 25, 2015
There was quite some vegetation when I got on this route today, I was on gardener duties for a while!
Anyways, bring some RPs or small nuts for the top. I didn´t have them with me and had to dig deep, climbing above a 0.3 for a while. Good route, balancy. You either have a good foot or a good hold. The book gives this climb a rating of 10+. The grade is fair, but we will have to downgrade Fairytale to 5.9 then.