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New Vector 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: Stefan Doucette on Apr 15, 2008
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Glenn getting reacquainted with his yet to be name...
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Description 

Twin cracks after the roof that leads you up the slab to the anchors. You can see that the starting dihedral was a little slimy that day, but surprisingly it had no affect on the climb. By the way, I just made up the name of this climb- I'll change it when its officially named.


Protection 

Mostly small cams and wires, with a few larger pieces for the bottom half/roof (size 3 cam at the biggest.) Anchors at top.



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By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 15, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

The route is called New Vector and shares a common start and anchor with the finger crack route to its left - Fractured Fairytale. Bring RPs and small TCUs for the technical and sustained, upper, tips crack section. The ledge at the first roof has a really sharp edge, be sure & place a directional above it for seconding/toproping.