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The Mojo Tooth Area
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New Traditionalists 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Chesko, Rick Cashner, Werner Braun (April '82)
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Bryan G on Mar 2, 2013

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Description 

Located around the corner to the left of of Yankee Clipper (11b). Begin at a stance at the top of a large flake at the bottom of the approach gully at the drop-off. The start is on the more serious side for an "R route" with tough moves before you get any gear. Then it's just some small pro here and there protecting thin techy climbing up a vertical face. Eventually you escape left to easier terrain and take huge knobs up to a flake. Jam the flake to the top of the cliff and a two bolt anchor (shared with Yankee Clipper). This route can be toproped after leading one of the other climbs to the right.

Protection 

Pro to 3" but mainly small stuff. Also maybe some long runners to sling knobs.


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