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 ADVANCED
Stirrup Rock - North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam's Rib T 
Crack Kills T 
Do Or Dike T 
Eve's Serpent T,TR 
Freckle Face T 
Jugular Vein T 
New Toy T 
Seebolt T 

New Toy 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson & Mike Beck, December 1982
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: "New Toy".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This climbs the obvious left-slanting crack system on the left edge of the shady north face of Stirrup Rock. Work your way down into the "pit" at the base and climb off a boulder into the crack. Jugular Vein (5.8) climbs this route and then cuts right to join a crack/dike system. Rap off bolts to climbers left to descend.

This is another route that receives mention in the Winger's 60 Classics/Trad Guide to Joshua Tree.





Protection 

Light rack. Optional 4" piece protects the flare halfway up.


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New Toy
BETA PHOTO: New Toy

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 19, 2012
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 29, 2007

Mostly boring 5.6 climbing. I'm sure the traffic has increased 10-fold by being published in the moderates guide book.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Nov 5, 2007

So unmemorable that I am at a loss of words to describe it. Might be a little awkward for the fledgling 5.6 leader - move onto something else before trying this as a start to your climbing career.
By BenCooper
From: Wyoming
Dec 22, 2007

do you like climbing over birdshit? lots and lots of birdshit? then this climb's for you!
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 21, 2008

If you like bird shit be sure to do Jugular Vein afterwards, there's a whole ledge of it to climb around. Or, if you're like me, put your hand in on the way up.
By Amy R
From: Mission Viejo, CA
Oct 30, 2008

My husband and I just did our first trad climb here. It's a good route (save for the funky smell coming from the off width crack toward the middle) and no one was out there. Tip: If you're weird about mouse crap, steer clear of this route. I guess the mice like to hang out at the bottom of this route.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 12, 2010

All cleaned up by this winter's rains. No bird crap anywhere on the route.
Far from boring or awkward; this is one of the better 5.6 routes in the Park.
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Feb 11, 2011

I'd have to agree with the last poster - fun climb, clean rock, good pro.
By Tradoholic
Mar 17, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Worth doing for a beginner. All clean of poop when I was there March 2011.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Ok, but there is much better to be had in Joshua Tree. Gargoyle is one that comes to mind, and it's in the area.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Nov 19, 2012

Not a bad route by any means. It was pretty clean, at least I didn't notice much. Nice place to get away, wander around and get on random routes.