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Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
Routes Sorted
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Bloody Fingers 
Chimney 
Double Vision 
Mystery Achievement 
New Toy 
Twist and Crawl 

New Toy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a X

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jay Goodwin
Page Views: 1,063
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 23, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Bloody Fingers
2) New Toy
3) Twist and Crawl

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Description 

This is the face below the anchors on Bloody Fingers. There are only 4 bolts on the route, and you have to pull the crux moves before the first bolt. A small wire might be had in the left leaning crack, before the first bolt.

There is ground fall pontential when clipping the first 3 bolts, so this is a better TR than lead. Follow fun face/knobs climbing to the anchors on Blood Fingers.


Protection 

draws



Photos of New Toy Slideshow Add Photo
Bloody Fingers area w/o lines.
BETA PHOTO: Bloody Fingers area w/o lines.
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By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I counted five bolts, but that doesn't change the danger rating as what Guy said was correct, in the groundfall potential. A great long face route with some cool friction moves and the odd body postion move. We did it on TR, while waiting for Bloody Fingers to open up...it never did and I ran out of time on this trip. Damn!!!!!

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

I led this route a few years ago, and I'm not sure I'd give it an X rating. I'm not usually that bold. I think solid R.

By powerandrubber
May 9, 2007

Agreed, definitly not X rated. Maybe R. The runouts would be average at Tuolumne or J Tree. Awesome route!

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

The crux in my opinion is after the first bolt making this route pretty safe and you would have to try pretty hard to fall off anywhere else. I think an R is reasonable but there is a chance of an X fall if you pitched off in the right spot.

You could say that about most routes though if you came off clipping the second bolt or piece of gear.

There are 4 bolts.

By Blitzo
Aug 23, 2010

Fun route.

By dave bingham
Jun 17, 2013

R - X whatever. This route is rarely led because of the sparse (hand drilled on lead) bolting. Jay G. felt fine about adding 10 bolts to "Mystery Achievement", but wants to leave "New Toy" as is. Go figure.

By grk10vq
Administrator
Jun 18, 2013

i see your point, but i really hope new toy remains in its current condition. its an exciting lead that tests your mental limits.