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New Vice Area
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New Tomorrow 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 556
Submitted By: Darin Limvere on Jul 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

In a weird way, some of the most unique rock at red wing. Fingery start and a hard clip moves into patina-like crimps. Sustained with a tricky crux until it gets a little muddy/dirty up top. Hold finding can be a bit difficult on the lower half of this climb. Depending on the season, the chains can be sketchy to clip due to the mud/dirt factor on the upper half. The center line just right of Jenna's face.

Protection 

bolts. warning, bolts require replacement. use your own gear for toprope.


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By AntVicino
Oct 24, 2009

Some of the sharpest crimps I have ever held. The holds are all positive but I dont think this climb could have been less enjoyable. The top is mud.
By Chris Craft
Nov 29, 2009

Yeah, I remember taking two things away from this route:

The bottom seemed suuuper hard for the 12a rating. felt more like V6 to me. The rock was sweet though.

The top was teetering choss.