New Thin Slab
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Nigel, always searching for those damn Skittles.
A very, very thin slab, that looked appealing as I hiked past it on the way to Plumb Line.
It starts with an easy stretch to the first bolt. Then it works past a small overlap to the second bolt. Then two more closely-drilled bolts protect a very thin and chickenhead-less stretch. Razor flakes and fingertip crystals is all that you have to work with.
After the last bolt a thin seam on the left allows you to work a very committing lieback up through the final tough sequence, until you can get some fingertips in the seam.
The crux seemed to be right around bolt #4.
Caveat: my rating is probably not accurate, as I only climbed it once in the sun on a warm day. If anyone else has info, please post it.
About thirty-seconds west of Barefoot in Barbados, easily recognizable by the four closely-spaced, reddish bolt hangers.
4 draws and two for the anchors.
|Comments on New Thin Slab
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Oct 5, 2007
I hopped on this route this morning (before the sun came up) thinking that it was Comfort Zone. I knew that my Mythos need to be resoled, but that was hardly an excuse for how ridiculously difficult this felt for 5.9-. Because the bolts are so tight, I only took a few short falls before a successful ascent. Because it was dark, I had trouble noticing that the anchors are to the right of the plumb line of bolts. I thought that this was just as hard as the slab section of Pearly Gates.
|By joshua boyd|
Apr 16, 2008
been on this on a good friction day and still got spit off several times before linking it together. very thin climbing, probably 11b, to short of crux to be any harder.
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 4, 2008
Deceivingly hard, felt like a step up from Neuromancer... From the base it looks like the crux will come about halfway up the route, but I found that getting above the 1st bolt was already super technical. Pull some funky moves to get past the overlap using the undercling feature, then put your slab skills to the test on pure friction. The few flakes I tried to stand on exfoliated nicely, resulting in nice falls while clipping the 4th bolt. The climbing remains sustained to the top, keeping the exit moves exciting until you can get high up on a rail.
|By Daniel Winder|
Jan 15, 2012
Like Ryan, I hopped on this thinking it was Comfort Zone and would make a nice cool down. Its low angle and tight bolting are deceptive because there are very few actual holds on the route. I finally made the anchor after being spit off repeatedly. The third bolt was a very awkward clip. Hard.