New Slang  5.13b

298 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Chris Hirsch, Jason Mcnabb 10/2010 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Chris Hirsch on Oct 29, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The Magician trying to comprehend some New Slang!

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Beautiful and proud mixed line up the steepest part of the wall. Start the same as 'Slang' and use the first bolt if you'd like. Follow the rightward slanting crack up through the streaks to the two bolt crux. Bomber gear down low, bring a .5 camalot, .3 camalot, and one large nut. At the bolts make some powerful 5.12 moves right before the seam fades away to nothing. Bust out left and up to a really good pinch followed by more gear plugging to the top. Lots of fun!

Location 

North side of The Shrub. Starts on a crack that branches into two. This is the right slanted crack that goes up the steepest part of the wall.

Protection 

2 bolts and finger size gear up to .75. Chain anchors.