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Dec 13, 2012
Hey guys, I'm looking for a pair of new climbing shoes that will be used primarily on slabby/friction climbs...any advice as to some good "sticky" shoe models I might check out? TJ Souther
From Brevard, NC
Joined Dec 12, 2012
43 points
Dec 13, 2012
There are a lot of good shoes to choose from for smearing and I'm sure you'll get many recommendations.

Here's mine - the La Sportiva Katana Velcro.
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
230 points
Dec 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Thanks Hank Caylor!
Five-ten Grandstone or La Sportiva TC Pro Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Joined Dec 12, 2010
44 points
Dec 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Cold day at Smug's
I like any somewhat loose fitting soft shoe. I've had Mythos, Mocasyms, Voloce's, and TC pros (not my favorite for pure slab). Currently I have a couple pairs of older mythos. IMO about the only thing they are good for is slab climbing. I really think any soft slipper that fits your foot will do for slabbing. Stone/LK/LG season is here! csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
355 points
Administrator
Dec 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: El Chorro
TJ Souther wrote:
Hey guys, I'm looking for a pair of new climbing shoes that will be used primarily on slabby/friction climbs...any advice as to some good "sticky" shoe models I might check out?


I've worn out more than one pair of Acopas on NC granite. Any of their less aggressive models will do - they are so comfy and very sticky rubber. I think the Merlins were my favorite. But they went out of business when JB passed so they are hard to find.

After that, 5.10 rubber is great for the Glass, the Bald, etc. Hard wearing but still sticky. All depends on your feet though.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Dec 13, 2012
Ryan Williams wrote:
I've worn out more than one pair of Acopas ... But they went out of business when JB passed so they are hard to find.



The website seems active. Are you really sure they're out of business?
Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Joined May 6, 2008
91 points
Dec 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protec...
any shoe that fits your foot and doesnt hurt...i regularly climb around these parts in my miuras, but use katana lace ups and in the past the red mocs

Go over to Looking Glass outfitters and Phil will get you squared away.
rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Joined Dec 20, 2009
311 points
Dec 13, 2012
Thanks for all the recommendations, I'll swing by LGO next week and see what I can find! TJ Souther
From Brevard, NC
Joined Dec 12, 2012
43 points
Dec 13, 2012
I saw grandstones thrown out there and I can't say anything else other than that I would highly advise against them for slab. I do that stuff in anastazis but its hard to go wrong with shoes and rubber these days. thomas.w
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 11, 2011
8 points
Administrator
Dec 14, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: El Chorro
Allen Corneau wrote:
The website seems active. Are you really sure they're out of business?


I guess anything is possible. I know people tried to step in and keep things going but they weren't making any shoes last year when I tried to get more. If you want some it's worth asking around. Supertopo is probably the best place to get info.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Dec 14, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: slopey
Acopa is definitely out of business, I've tried all of their contacts, all of which have been disconnected or their services cancelled. Sad day Jeremy Hand
Joined Feb 24, 2012
109 points
Dec 14, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
Boreal Aces, Boreal Ballet Golds... Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,533 points


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