From Vandalia, Appalachia
Jul 29, 2012
Well, there are actually very few gear 5.12s at the BRG that will prepare you for the Valley in terms of either pure jamming technique or subtle granite smearing, but here's a good list, from what I think is easiest to hardest:
Big Top, 5.12a, Lower Meadow River.
Great gear, but very little jamming; the crux was a layback for me. Still, great, and probably the easiest trad 12 at the New. Traverse in from the left, unless you want to add a 5.11 r/x start.
Fingercrack in White Corner, 12a, S.Nut
Easier and more straightforward moves than The Beckoning, but WAY pumpier!
Genocide, 12a, Beauty Mtn.
Obvious fingercrack on the far left of the Disturbance cave. I have not yet done it, but have heard the crux is the pumpy face up to the crack, and the crack is mid-11 or so.
Stolen Tiggers, 12b, The Other Place (Meadow)
Bolted start, but this is still my favorite roof crack in the area (only because I can't do Greatest Show)
Portly Gentleman's Route, 12c, Fern Buttress
Fairly easy crack and roof climbing to a stopper 3 move crux. Do this if you are feeling v-bouldering strong.
Black Crack, 12c, 1st Buttress, Meadow River
Really nice Peter Croft route that doesn't get done that much, since it sits right in between a couple of popular 13a sport routes. Easier finger crack and face climbing, to a heady but safe riht traverse, into a killer steep hands and finger crack. Take way more yellow tcu/.4 camalot size than you need.
Luv Nothing, 12c, S.Nut
My personal favorite. Pure, steep thin hands and ringlocks jamming. A bit of wide choss that the bottom, and you may want to haul up a stick to clean out the spider webs at the bottom alcove.
New Traditionalist, 12b, S.Nut
Unless you have tiny fingers, this may feel like solid 12+ to you. Way quality, though.
For Yosemite prep, I would get on Luv Nothing and Black Crack, as well as the classic 11s like Chasing the Wind, Agent Orange, Stuck in Another Dimension, and Leave it to Jesus.