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New River Gorge Proper

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Ambassador Buttress 
Beauty Mountain 
Bridge Area 
Bubba City 
Cotton Top 
Domino Point 
Endless Wall 
Fern Buttress 
Junkyard Area 
Kaymoor 
Keeney's Buttress 
South Nuttall 
Sunshine Crag 
Tuggin Shack Boulders 

New River Gorge Proper Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.0779, -81.0634 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 258,279
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Oct 10, 2007
Forecast:
Today

81° | 63°
Monday

80° | 54°
Tuesday

69° | 45°
Wednesday

69° | 47°
Thursday

68° | 48°
Friday

70° | 51°
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Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, South Nuttal, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.

Location 

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

713 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',131],['3 Stars',325],['2 Stars',184],['1 Star',60],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',27],['5.7',32],['5.8',39],['5.9',69],['5.10',162],['5.11',171],['5.12',154],['5.13',49],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in New River Gorge Proper

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New River Gorge Proper:
Geisha Girl   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Flight of the Gumby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Rico Suave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
The Entertainer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Psycho Wrangler   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cotton Top
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Quinsana Plus   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area
Proper Soul   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Endless Wall : The Cirque
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New River Gorge Proper

Featured Route For New River Gorge Proper
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael Levato on Flight of the Gumbie. Photo by J...

Flight of the Gumby 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Butcher's Branch
This climb starts on the right wall of the obvious huge left facing corner of Butcher's branch. Grab some jugs right off the ground and muscle your way up to better holds moving toward the arete as you go. About halfway up you'll traverse to the right side of the arete utilizing a small ledge. Follow the bolts up as the moves get more balance and sequence dependent.Classic climb that usually has a little line. A full-value route....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of New River Gorge Proper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.

Comments on New River Gorge Proper Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Aug 13, 2011
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila??
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Aug 17, 2011
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles....
By katiepl87
Apr 19, 2014
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail?
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 19, 2014
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price.

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