New River Gorge Homesick Blues 5.9+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Jonathan Houck, 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Ryan Farris on Aug 25, 2001 |
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Andy Nguyen Flashing NRG Homesick Blues. Photo by...
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Description This route is to the left of Kid's Climb. Follow the line up through the bolts to the anchors. Have fun!
Addendum: this route may have originally been intended to follow the bolt line making it probably 5.11. However, it is rather apparent that one can head left after the 2nd bolt to make it a moderate lead for most folks. Originally, the 2nd bolt was the 1st fixed gear on the route requiring some less-than-perfectly-solid gear placement and a bit more anxiety to starting the route.
Protection This was updated to 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first bolt was a bit off the ground, hence the "R" rating, now no longer an R. Bring a stickclip for safety.
Past the crux and cruising to the anchor.
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@ the cool undercling.
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Right of the deck on NRGHB.
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| Comments on New River Gorge Homesick Blues |
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By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2006
rating: 5.9+
| There seems to be a newer bolt before the original "1st bolt", and I don't believe the route now deserves an "R" rating.
Also, the crux is a very interesting sequence of moves that I look forward to doing again. Good route (by Table standards anyway). |
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 28, 2007
rating: 5.11
| Jonathan rated NRGHB hardish 5.11 and it felt that way to me, way back. I'm guessing it is a good 5.9 by not cutting left. It is always interesting to see how others interpret beta. The nine plus way looks good too.
About the bolting. I do know this route was vandalized by The Man From S.C.A.R.E. I think the 1/2" Rawl, first bolt, is the fix for what was taken. The other three bolts all look like the work of the Plastic Prince. He loved overhangs and was not one to put in contrived runouts! |
By jay baichi
Jan 26, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| There are four bolts on this. It is very safe and fun. |
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Sep 28, 2008
rating: 5.9
| I think this is one of the best 9s at the crag. It is certainly safe. There are good rests once you get through the roof, probably not what the FA intended, but if it's close enough to clip the bolts, IMO, the rest is on the route. |
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