L to R R to L Alpha
New New Place is yet another one of White Rock's basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Climbs are numbered from left to right and coincide with Wa3lt's Left Side beta photo and Right Side beta photo .
Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations. Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande, then go south a ways to find the easiest downclimb. If you see the tire "art" below, you're in the right place. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south end of the cliff being preferred).
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in New New Place
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New New Place:
Beginner's 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR, 40'
Have a Nice Day Yucca 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Twin Cracks 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 45'
Phone Booth 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Batshit Crack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Rumsey's Lead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Thumb Action 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Avalauncher 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a TR, 35'
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For New New Place
The thin face and prow just right of Sharons Lead is an excellent toprope problem. You can begin on the face proper, or start in a hand crack to the right. Above 15' up, you get to the crux, a section of thin face: grab the arete and use the good small edge instead of the slopers above. This is largely unprotected. A mantle leads to a good rest. Above you can stay right on the arete, and it is still sustained interesting climbing (again, with scarce obvious gear placements).I d...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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