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 ADVANCED
New New Place

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avalauncher TR 
Batshit Crack T,TR 
Beginner's T,TR 
Crap On T,TR 
Flare T,TR 
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 
Hard Crack T,TR 
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 
Phone Booth T,TR 
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Lead T,TR 
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 
Thumb Action T,TR 
Twin Cracks T,TR 
Unnamed T,TR 

New New Place 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.8116, -106.1985 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,937
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 11, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" is the 3rd...

Description 

New New Place is yet another one of White Rock's basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Climbs are numbered from left to right and coincide with Wa3lt's Left Side beta photo and Right Side beta photo .

Discovered by Steve Schum and Mike Roybal in the early 1970s (soon after the discovery of the Old New Place), the rock at the New New Place is good and nearly vertical, and some of the lines here are as long as any at White Rock (up to 60 or 70' tall). Most climbs are characterized by short sections of difficulty between good rest stances or ledges; however, the New New Place has a greater abundance of 5.8 and 5.9 lines compared to some others at White Rock. A few excellent more difficult lines are found here as well.

The New New Place faces east, making it shaded in late afternoon and evenings, and somewhat sheltered from the wind. Because the cliff is not as classic as some of the others in White Rock, you're likely to find yourself alone here. Although the 5 minute approach to the clifftop is straightforward, the rocky blocky scramble down to the cliff base makes the New New Place a bad location for dogs or small children. Unfortunately, distasteful graffiti and tire trash below the cliff blemish what is otherwise a beautiful location.

An list of routes with short descriptions (and a couple of errors) is found on this page of the LA Mountaineers website
A photo with routes delineated is found in "Jemez Rock", which corrected and published (with permission) the original handed down material from Guido, Jason Chen, and Walt Wehner (and others previously?) which also found its way to the LA Mountaineers website. A longtime LA climber was surprised to learn one of the climbs here was named after him, so I'm thinking these are not the original route names, not that it matters. This area is not described in detail in any other guidebooks, as far as I know.

The White Rock bolting agreement forbids bolts being placed in the middle of climbs here (if you can't protect it on lead- toprope it!), however, bolted anchors were installed to prevent damage to trees.


Getting There 

Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations. Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande, then go south a ways to find the easiest downclimb. If you see the tire "art" below, you're in the right place. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south end of the cliff being preferred).


Climbing Season


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New New Place:
Have a Nice Day Yucca   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Batshit Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in New New Place

Featured Route For New New Place

Beginner's 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : New New Place
Scramble up some blocky terrain and into the obvious square dihedral. Enjoy fun, low angle face climbing on the face between the walls and/or bust out some stemming. A couple of horizontal cracks break up the face but don't offer very good gear placements. 2-bolt anchor at the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of New New Place Slideshow Add Photo
New New Place, left side. Photo by <a href='/u/wa3lt//105890904'>Wa3lt</a>. <br />(1) Rough Wall Left 5.10d <br />(2) Rough Wall Middle 5.11a <br />(3) Face It 5.10 <br />(4) <a href='/v/avalauncher/106383414'>Avalauncher</a> 5.12a <br />(5) <a href='/v/flare/106228668'>Flare</a> 5.9 <br />(6) <a href='/v/sharons-sandbag/106386618'>Sharon's Sandbag</a> 5.9 <br /> <br />A few easier climbs are not shown, between 2 and 3.
BETA PHOTO: New New Place, left side. Photo by Wa3lt.
...
New New Place, right side. Photo by <a href='/u/wa3lt//105890904'>Wa3lt</a>. <br />(7) <a href='/v/half-moons-aka-clockwork/106234293'>Half Moons</a> 5.11c/d <br />(8) Fever Pitch 5.12a <br />(9) <a href='/v/rumseys-lead/106234283'>Rumsey's Lead</a> 5.10d <br />(11) <a href='/v/batshit-crack/106228628'>Batshit Crack</a> 5.10b <br />(12) <a href='/v/open-book-aka-pure-thoughts/106236245'>Open Book</a> 5.12a <br />(13) <a href='/v/thumb-action/106228641'>Thumb Action</a> 5.11a <br />(14) <a href='/v/phone-booth/106228636'>Phone Booth</a> 5.10a <br />(15) Easy Start to Phone Booth 5.9 <br />(16) <a href='/v/have-a-nice-day-yucca/106228676'>Have a Nice Day Yucca</a> 5.8+ <br />(17) <a href='/v/twin-cracks/106228637'>Twin Cracks</a> (with left finish) 5.10 as shown
BETA PHOTO: New New Place, right side. Photo by Wa3lt....
Right side of the New New. My notes say the numbers (along the bottom) should go: <br />7,8,9,10/11,12,13,14,15,16,17
BETA PHOTO: Right side of the New New. My notes say the number...
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