New New Place Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" ...
New New Place is yet another one of White Rock's basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Climbs are numbered from left to right
and coincide with Wa3lt's ?Left Side beta photo? and ?Right Side beta photo? .
Discovered by Steve Schum and Mike Roybal in the early 1970s (soon after the discovery of the Old New Place
), the rock at the New New Place is good and nearly vertical, and some of the lines here are as long as any at White Rock (up to 60 or 70' tall). Most climbs are characterized by short sections of difficulty between good rest stances or ledges; however, the New New Place has a greater abundance of 5.8 and 5.9 lines compared to some others at White Rock. A few excellent more difficult lines are found here as well.
The New New Place faces east, making it shaded in late afternoon and evenings, and somewhat sheltered from the wind. Because the cliff is not as classic as some of the others in White Rock, you're likely to find yourself alone here. Although the 5 minute approach to the clifftop is straightforward, the rocky blocky scramble down to the cliff base makes the New New Place a bad location for dogs or small children. Unfortunately, distasteful graffiti and tire trash below the cliff blemish what is otherwise a beautiful location.
An list of routes with short descriptions (and a couple of errors) is found on this page of the LA Mountaineers website
A photo with routes delineated is found in "Jemez Rock", which corrected and published (with permission) the original handed down material from Guido, Jason Chen, and Walt Wehner (and others previously?) which also found its way to the LA Mountaineers website. A longtime LA climber was surprised to learn one of the climbs here was named after him, so I'm thinking these are not the original route names, not that it matters. This area is not described in detail in any other guidebooks, as far as I know.
The White Rock bolting agreement
forbids bolts being placed in the middle of climbs here (if you can't protect it on lead- toprope it!), however, bolted anchors were installed to prevent damage to trees.
Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations. Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande, then go south a ways to find the easiest downclimb. If you see the tire "art" below, you're in the right place. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south end of the cliff being preferred).
Climbing Season For the White Rock area.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in New New Place
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New New Place
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New New Place:
Beginner's 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PG13 Trad, TR, 40'
Featured Route For New New Place
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
: Los Alamos & White Rock
: ... : New New Place
The thin face and prow just right of Sharons Lead is an excellent toprope problem. You can begin on the face proper, or start in a hand crack to the right. Above 15' up, you get to the crux, a section of thin face: grab the arete and use the good small edge instead of the slopers above. This is largely unprotected. A mantle leads to a good rest. Above you can stay right on the arete, and it is still sustained interesting climbing (again, with scarce obvious gear placements).I d...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Right side of the New New. My notes say the number...