New New Place Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Right side of the New New. My notes say the number...
New New Place is another one of White Rock's vertical basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Some of the lines here are as long as any at White Rock (up to 60 or 70' tall) and are quite good. Most climbs are characterized by short crux sections between good rest stances or ledges. The New New Place has more 5.8 and 5.9 lines compared to some other White Rock cliffs. A few good more challenging climbs are found here as well. People have been climbing here since Steve Schum and Mike Roybal in the early 1970s.
The New New Place faces east, making it shaded in late afternoon and evenings, and somewhat sheltered from the wind. Because the cliff is not as classic as some of the others in White Rock, you're likely to find yourself alone here. Although the 5 minute approach to the clifftop is straightforward, the rocky blocky scramble down to the cliff base makes the New New Place a bad location for dogs or small children. Unfortunately, distasteful graffiti and tire trash below the cliff blemish what is otherwise a beautiful location.
An list of routes with short descriptions (and a couple of errors) is found on this page of the LA Mountaineers website
A photo with routes delineated is found in "Jemez Rock", which corrected and published (with permission) the original handed down material from Guido, Jason Chen, and Walt Wehner (and others previously?) which also found its way to the LA Mountaineers website. A longtime local climber was surprised to learn one of the climbs here was named after him, so perhaps these are not the original route names, not that it matters.
Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations (Rover). Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande. If you see the tire "art" below, you're in the right place. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south side of the cliff is easiest).
Climbing Season For the White Rock area.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in New New Place
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in New New Place
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for New New Place:
Beginner's 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PG13 Trad, TR, 40'
Featured Route For New New Place
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
: Los Alamos & White Rock
: ... : New New Place
Pure Thoughts begins in the obvious shallow dihedral just right of Batshit Crack (.10b). After several 5.11 moves in the dihedral, pulling and balancing on bad feet and poor hands in the seam, the crux is gaining the top of the dihedral. Above the dihedral, conquer an interesting bulge by veering left (5.11), then tackle a featured face (5.10-) to the top.Lots of fun with a wide variety of moves....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" ...