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Unsorted Routes:

New Music 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Lowe/Malcolm Daly
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO
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Description 

A hard line to the left of Fat City. None of the guide books have reported the complete route, so here it is. All the bolts were drilled on lead from stances.

P1. Start in the incipient groove 20' left of the start of Fat City and face climb the groove until you can step left and clip the first bolt. This section is hairy and can be protected if you're good with Tri-cams and RPs. Climb up the bolt line to the 2-bolt belay.

P2. Another incipient groove takes you up to the top of The "44" crack. Cross it to the roof, step down and left until you can haul over the roof on good holds. Face climb up (hard) to a left angling groove, or dike, and head left to belay in the first crack system you come to.

P3. Step right and face climb up a buttress to its top. It's easier than it looks; similar, and close to, High Plains Drifter. Head up toward the Wilie's Way dihedral and set up a bely when your rope gets tight.

P4. Climb Willie's Way (10+) and keep going and belay at the base of the steep headwall.

P5. Climb the headwall, climbing through the two square roofs on their right sides. Mantle onto the summit.


Protection 

Requires draws for the bolts and a trad rack trending to the thin stuff.



Comments on New Music Add Comment
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By paco
Apr 9, 2002

the old anchors and one protection bolt have been replaced on pitch 1. if youre not up for leading this serious first pitch you can easily reach the anchors for a great TR via the anchors on p.1 of fat city. only one of the two bolts for lead have been replaced (the 2nd one).

By Nate A
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 22, 2003

Recently led the 1st pitch. Good natural pro up to a horizontal leaning seam with a fixed pin, very spicy from here to the first bolt but solid climbing with good edges. I believe someone has added a new last bolt, there are now a total of three to the anchors.

By Nate A
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 18, 2005

The lone bolt on the 2nd pitch replaced on 3-17-05. Looks like someone felt bad about the retrobolt added to the first pitch and removed it.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Oct 3, 2009

Top roped the first pitch today. Excellent climbing on good stone. There is a good fixed pin and then two widely spaced bolts that take you to a good rap station to the left of Fat City's first belay. The two protection bolts are new and bomber. This would be a pretty hairy and runout lead.