New Moon  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Colonel Mustard on Aug 6, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>> On June 16, 2012, a nest with chicks was noticed on the ledge at the end of the second pitch of Touch and Go. Please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid climbing routes from Touch and Go south to the left side of the Cannibal Gully (such as Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, and Bourbon Street) until the chicks fledge. Fledging can happen early, but typical seasonal closures extend until September 1st or later. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Starting on face holds, New Moon quickly joins up with a right leaning finger crack before you jog out left into the upper part of Firecracker crack about 10-15 feet before the roof. The finger crack gradually widens and the crux is probably some rattly fingers before you start getting thin hand jams. Eventually, the crack widens up and basically ends at a jug. At this point take that louie on to Firecracker.

New Moon allows a bypass of the wider areas on Firecracker if you're rack is short a bigger piece or two and you're not feeling the runout, and is of higher quality than the lower section of Firecracker anyway.

Location 

Just right of Firecracker on the ledge above and to the right of One Hand Clapping.

Protection 

Finger-sized cams - 3" or 4" Camalot. Very well protected with a standard rack that includes a few smaller pieces.