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New Moon 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,158
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Aug 6, 2011

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A great (better) approach to the Firecracker roof.

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  • Description 

    Starting on face holds, New Moon quickly joins up with a right leaning finger crack before you jog out left into the upper part of Firecracker crack about 15-20 feet before the roof. The finger crack gradually widens and the crux is probably some rattly fingers before you start getting thin hand jams. Eventually, the crack widens up and basically ends at a jug. At this point take that louie into Firecracker.

    New Moon allows a bypass of the wider areas on Firecracker if your rack is short a bigger piece or two and you're not feeling like a run out. A higher quality start to a classic finish instead of doinking around on more pedestrian climbing is also yielded. Beautiful rock either way. The knowledge that at twilight hundreds of bats pour out of the roof section on Firecracker should comfort bat lovers too. Maybe not when you're cranking at the crux there, however.

    Location 

    Just right of Firecracker on the ledge above and to the right of One Hand Clapping.

    Protection 

    Finger-sized cams - 3" or 4" Camalot. Very well protected with a standard rack that includes a few smaller pieces.


    Comments on New Moon Add Comment
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    By Patrick Mulligan
    Apr 22, 2013

    I figured I would get on this as a way to avoid the wide crack on Firecracker (didn't have anything larger than a #2 camalot) and got the send. It not a gimme but I found it more technical than powerful.
    By Khick
    Oct 15, 2014

    Thought the roof was still harder than the widening jams. Really fun though!
    By Tahoe Matt
    From: Truckee
    Sep 3, 2015

    The .5 fingers is the real crux. No gear above a #2 is needed for the linkup. Try not to reach out left to keep it legit.

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