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New low (or should I say high) for guiding industry?

Original Post
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

WTF?
denverpost.com/business/ci_…

FULL STORY:

Estes Park guides lead the very brave to bunks suspended from cliffs
Big-wall camping with Kent Mountain Adventure Center adds to Estes Park's adventure offerings and wellness tourism focus
By Jason Blevins
The Denver Post
Posted: 06/20/2015 12:01:00 AM MDT9 Comments | Updated: 70 min. ago

ESTES PARK — Brett Bloxom and TJ Sanford typically deploy a tent-like tarp over their guests' beds before arrival. It has little to do with weather.

The view from the bunk is spectacular — one of the best in all of Colorado — but most newcomers need some time in closed quarters to gather themselves after they arrive at their fabric-and-steel camping portaledge suspended 170 feet up a sheer rock wall.

"They need a place to chill for a few minutes," said Bloxom, a guide with Kent Mountain Adventure Center in Estes Park. "Just calm to themselves a bit."

David Ciani didn't need the tarp. He plopped down giddily on the portaledge, huffing from the strenuous ascent.

"So awesome," he said, repeating the nerve-calming mantra over and over.

Harry Kent's Kent Mountain Adventure Center is probably the only outfit in the world offering clients a chance to live like a big-wall rock climber for a night, offering dinner, drink and a sleep under the stars on a 4-by-7 platform clipped to cliff.

"We are inventing this as we go," said Kent, an accomplished climber who hasn't lost his Boston accent, despite nearly 30 years in Colorado. "No one else is doing this. We are breaking new ground here."

Kent and his longtime climbing partner Keith Lober weren't sure the cliff-camping thing would take off.

Last summer, they fielded a call from Charley Boorman, a British travel adventurer who was looking to spend the night suspended by ropes on a cliff for a television show.

After Boorman left, Kent tacked the offering onto his website's list of adventures and printed a handful of brochures pitching the opportunity to sleep tied to a rock for $1,200 a night. (If two people sign up, the price drops to $800 each.)

"It's really taken off," Kent said. "Turns out this is kind of a bucket-list item for a lot of people."

The ballyhooed Dawn Wall ascent in January by Estes Park's own Tommy Caldwell and his partner Kevin Jorgeson definitely fanned the cliff-camping flames. Images splashed around the world for weeks, showing the duo huddling on portaledges in Yosemite National Park while they tackled the first free ascent of what many consider the world most difficult big-wall climb left Kent's phones ringing.

Despite the interest — including trips from media outlets in Great Britain following Boorman's video — it was not a no-brainer for Kent. The hurdles to establishing a cliff-camping program were high.
Cliff-climbing guide TJ Sanford, above, works on securing his portaledge last Sunday as fellow guide Brett Bloxom, in green, and their client, David Ciani,
Cliff-climbing guide TJ Sanford, above, works on securing his portaledge last Sunday as fellow guide Brett Bloxom, in green, and their client, David Ciani, take in the view from a second portaledge clipped to the cliff, which is called Deville III. The cliff stands just outside of Estes Park. (Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Post)

First there was finding a location. Kent, with 20 years of guiding experience, knew he'd need a big wall. Something easily accessible, maybe within a 30-minute hike from the car. Phone service would be key. The steep cliff would require quality rock, not a face filled with loose flakes that become missiles when inadvertently loosed from the wall by a climber.

Kent didn't have to look far from his adventure center headquarters on the edge of Rocky Mountain National Park. Across the valley, above the venerable Cheley Colorado Camp, is an isolated, overlooked granite crag known as Deville III. It was first explored by the legendary climber Layton Kor in the 1950s and pretty much left alone since. It's steep, close and part of the Roosevelt National Forest, where Kent has had a permit for many years.

And most important for Ciani, Deville III has network phone reception.

The Ohio native spent part of his Sunday night on the portaledge watching both the spectacular sunset and his iPad as his beloved Cleveland Cavaliers fell to the Golden State Warriors. (He also ate chicken and quinoa with sautéed vegetables and sipped a little Johnny Walker Red, his feet dangling over the darkened abyss below. Breakfast was pepperoni omelets and coffee.)

"It was definitely the most authentic and adventurous guided experience I've ever had," Ciani said. "It was a legit experience."

Kent acknowledges cliff camping couldn't happen without the right guides. He needs at least two, and often three or four, for just two clients. Cliff camping is technically demanding, requiring seriously skilled guides who can teach a newcomer strategies typically used only by elite rock climbers.

"You can't be a regular guide and be ready for this," said Kent, who puts his cliff-camping guides through specialized training. "They are always up there in their head, thinking about what's next, what's backing up what. It's a big deal up there. Everything is carefully planned."

Sanford, one of Kent's lead guides,was skeptical when his boss proposed a regular cliff-camping program.

"I didn't think it would be smart to bring people with no experience into something like this," Sanford said. "Now I'm into it. I think the lack of experience actually helps. It forces people to trust in the guide a little more. No one is saying 'Well, so-and-so taught me this way,' or 'This is how I've always done it.' "

Newbies dangling from thin ropes tend to be good listeners. Even so, cliff-camping clients are carefully groomed with an intense survey before booking their trip, answering questions about their health and any previous bouts with vertigo.

They also go through a morning training session at the Kent Mountain Adventure Center headquarters, where they learn a few knots, how to ascend a fixed rope, how to haul gear bags and how to rappel. (They are also urged to make use of the facilities at the headquarters before beginning the approach to the cliff, especially if they are not planning to use the not-quite convenient Waste Alleviation & Gelling packets, or WAG bags.)

Guides grill their clients on proper communication, like yelling "rock!' when stones come loose and "off belay" and "climbing" when dealing with ropes. At the base of the cliff, Sanford suspended the easily deployed Metolius portaledge a few feet from the ground for a dry-run.

The ledge makes an ominous scraping sound as it settles against the rock wall. It wobbles and shifts with the changing weight of shifting bodies.

"But don't worry, you are always clipped in," Sanford said.

Ciani, a Colorado State University graduate, is an outdoorsy guy. If he was nervous, he wasn't showing it. But he did ask questions about the reliability of bolts that Kent's team has drilled into the rock. They are half-inch bolts and Kent was quick to point out that is the diameter — not the length. The anchoring bolts expand when screwed into the granite. They are rated to hold several thousand pounds, exponentially more than needed for cliff camping.

Ciani, the Stanley Hotel's general manager since February, sees a big upside to Kent's cliff camping adventures. He's imagining a three-day package that melds his hotel's signature pampering with a substantial dose of adrenaline.

Guests would spend a night at his hotel — built in Estes Park by businessman F.O. Stanley in 1909 as a healthy respite in the hills — before joining the guides for a suspended night. They'd have a champagne brunch and spend another night at the Stanley to decompress.

"We think there's a lot of opportunity with this," Ciani said.

The cliffside adventure fits into Estes Park's renewed focus on health and wellness tourism. The Stanley Hotel and the Estes Park Medical Center are developing a sweeping, $30 million wellness center at the hotel, with a fitness facility, a conference center for seminars and retreats and a residential hotel to accommodate longer stays.

The public-private wellness project at the Stanley Hotel — and really a swath of wellness initiatives in Estes Park — is a return to the days a century ago, when visitors flocked to the Estes Park Valley for the health benefits of mountain air and clean living.

Adventure travel and guided trips like cliff camping can spark a deeper pursuit of a healthy lifestyle.

"Offering such guided excursions in Estes Park means many more of our guests will experiment with new forms of recreation and discover new wellness interests," said Brooke Burnham, spokeswoman for the destination marketing group Visit Estes Park. "Cliff camping is largely a mental feat, similar to adopting a wellness lifestyle, that begins with a shift in how we think about ourselves and our perceived limitations."

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

Great. Now they just need to get some drones to fly laps around these folks, taking pictures. They can post the pictures to facebook with some epic captions so their friends know just how adventurous (ie rich) they are.

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

"Cliff camping is largely a mental feat, similar to adopting a wellness lifestyle, that begins with a shift in how we think about ourselves and our perceived limitations."

Yeesh. Vertical glamping, maybe?

Shades of P.T. Barnum.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I thought the best part of the video was the use of ascenders right next to an easy climb.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

There's a market and someone willing to provide the service and make money. Sounds like they are all getting something out of it and it doesn't affect me in the least.

Are they clogging a route to do this?

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

For $1200 you could buy a portaledge, a rope, haulbag, harness, helmet, ascenders, and enough food to last for a month...

vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 560

I wonder if this is the Kieth Lober from Yosemite LEO fame ... Or infamy

Aaron S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 150

As long as they aren't impacting any routes this doesn't bother me. I think it's silly as hell, but no worse than many other "adventures" for purchase out there.

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Supply and Demand is correct and they figured out a real sweet easy cash cow.....

taipan jam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 30

Vincent, I was wondering the same thing...

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

As long as its on routes that dont see traffic ... Who cares

They arent harming anyone

Intrawebz climbing problems

At least it keeps the guides gainfully employed

;)

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Paul-B wrote:Great. Now they just need to get some drones to fly laps around these folks, taking pictures. They can post the pictures to facebook with some epic captions so their friends know just how adventurous (ie rich) they are.
I never got why a lot of climbers have a chip on their shoulder about not having as much money as those who make their career their life. Don't we choose to go outside to play, and forsake the social norms of working our life away?

We have fun as much as we can. Most people don't, it seems.
Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115
Eliot Augusto wrote: I never got why a lot of climbers have a chip on their shoulder about not having as much money as those who make their career their life. Don't we choose to go outside to play, and forsake the social norms of working our life away? We have fun as much as we can. Most people don't, it seems.
I think you are taking my sarcasm in much the wrong way. I have definitely put a career before climbing... I am far from a dirtbag. I love climbing as well, and spend as much time doing it as possible.

This was just a jab at how social media, drones, etc has changed the current generation. The general feeling that social media seems to exude is that adventure is purchasable... and, while certainly not true across the board, it seems that, to some, photos are the end goal. The trip is less about getting out in nature and enjoying themselves and more about how they can stage the most epic facebook (instagram, etc) shot ever. I feel that paying large sums of money simply to sleep on a portaledge, without ever climbing exemplifies this mindset.

In the end, it was mostly a joke with a bit of truth, i believe. I cannot say I have never been guilty of trying to take some epic shots bound for facebook....
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

If there's a market for it, good for them. Leave it to some elitist climbers to make fun of them.

SDY · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
FrankPS wrote:Leave it to some elitist climbers to make fun of them.
I make fun of people that waste money drinking bottled water. Does that make me an elite water drinker?
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
Paul-B wrote: This was just a jab at how social media, drones, etc has changed the current generation. The general feeling that social media seems to exude is that adventure is purchasable... and, while certainly not true across the board, it seems that, to some, photos are the end goal. The trip is less about getting out in nature and enjoying themselves and more about how they can stage the most epic facebook (instagram, etc) shot ever.
So true. Remember, according to the article, cell phone reception was one of the major criteria for the location.
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Paul-B wrote: I think you are taking my sarcasm in much the wrong way. I have definitely put a career before climbing... I am far from a dirtbag. I love climbing as well, and spend as much time doing it as possible. This was just a jab at how social media, drones, etc has changed the current generation. The general feeling that social media seems to exude is that adventure is purchasable... and, while certainly not true across the board, it seems that, to some, photos are the end goal. The trip is less about getting out in nature and enjoying themselves and more about how they can stage the most epic facebook (instagram, etc) shot ever. I feel that paying large sums of money simply to sleep on a portaledge, without ever climbing exemplifies this mindset. In the end, it was mostly a joke with a bit of truth, i believe. I cannot say I have never been guilty of trying to take some epic shots bound for facebook....
Fair enough, and true enough. It is just an extreme overnight amusement park trip to them. And I was taking your sarcasm wrong. But its mainly because I hear a lot of climbers complain about money at a crag on tuesday morning. Followed shortly by "oh my god...I LOVE CLIMBING! Its a beautiful day!"
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
SDY wrote: I make fun of people that waste money drinking bottled water. Does that make me an elite water drinker?
Come to think of it, so do I. :) (make fun of those people always walking around with a bottle of water in their hand)
David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Sounds like they've figured out a clever way to make some money.

Wouldn't be my experience -- but if they have people interested, good for them. People also pay for lots of other odd experiences: balloon rides; bungie jumping; white-water rafting; rides in jet fighters; etc.

Jen Aycock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Hey all,

Jen Aycock, Business Manager at Kent Mountain Adventure Center. I see that our "cliff camping" program is causing quite the conversation. I just wanted to reach out to everyone here and answer some of the questions that I see.

Did we choose the site for the sake of cell phone reception? No, but it was a great bonus. While we value a digital detox, we realize that is not everyone's goal when they come to Estes Park. We attract clients off all sorts, some looking for that detox from technology, and some looking to share their vacation with friends and family real-time through social media.

How did we choose our site? Well, we needed a vertical wall within Estes Park with little to no climber traffic. We settled on Deville3, a crag we've been developing for some years. It rarely sees traffic outside of KMAC.

Are we clogging a route to do this? Not really. Yes, there are two routes that go directly to our site, but there are rarely (if ever) climbers there (aside from our own staff who climb there several times per week). We have never run into other recreational climbers. I believe the last time someone posted anything on Mountain Project about Deville was in 2006. So, is there a chance you would come to climb the one or two routes that we put up a few years ago and find us "glamping", yes.... is it likely, definitely not.

Clients have an option to either ascend the rope, climb on of the routes, or hike to the top and rappel to the portaledge.

If you work in the guiding industry, you know how tough a career it can be. We do our best to provide our clients with a safe a memorable experience without interrupting the experience of the recreational climbers who share the sites we guide. I hope this clears up any confusion. Please don't hesitate to contact me with questions or concerns you may have regarding the sites we use.

Jen Aycock
Buiness Manager, Kent Mountain Adventure Center
jen@kmaconline.com

m russi · · New Haven, CT · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

They're pouring Bolla up there!? Cheap bastards!!

http://kmaconline.com/cliff-camping-colorado/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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