New Light Waves 

This is the classic do it once and thats good enough for me climb. It messed my finger up for months. The climbing leading up to the crux is rather interesting though and probably worth doing if the crux hadn't beet me up so bad.

Eh...got on it and got shut down. The gear looks to be acceptable though. Might be much better when the temps cool down. Got over the roof and got my right hand in a mono-stack, sounds right to anyone?

That mono sounds about right. I think I used it as an intermediate. I also remember a knee-bar in the corner. I put a knee pad on for it (don't judge me).

I also checked out the gear on this. It's all there.

Knee bar? Just smearing? The gear looked doable but not really "all there", I will have to take another look when it cools down a bit.

If you climb to the notch and use holds a bit left, then right back onto the face this thing is 11a, if you go direct then it's 12b, maybe harder I couldn't get it.

There 2 ways to do this both about the same grade, 5.12b/c from the notch, knee bar, straight up or move right a slight bit, do some weird side pulls, and you do avoad the holds left of the notch,

I wish I could give this 2.5 stars, it's really good! Thanks for the beta Trad Nanny.

Led this today. Crux piece is a C3 in a weird upward pointing orientation, not sure if it would have taken a fall. Remo and I used totally different beta for the crux. Complicated for such a short climb.

Nice lead man!