Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balcony, The TR 
Birnam Wood T 
Cerebration T,TR 
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 
Double Overhang T,TR 
Eave of Destruction T 
False Alarm Jam T,TR 
Foreplay T,TR 
Friendly Banter T,TR 
Green Bulge TR 
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 
Hirsute TR 
Jungle VIP TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Mezzanine, The T,TR 
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 
New Light Waves TR 
Orgasm T,TR 
Orgasm Direct T 
Out of the Woods T,TR 
Resolution TR 
Resurrection TR 
Second Balcony T,TR 
Second Coming TR 
Unnamed 5.4 T,TR 

New Light Waves 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 871
Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
On lead, whipped on the last move on this attempt....

Description 

near green bulge lies this gem. i remember killer moves and fuk-nes. i dont think this has been led ....yet.


Protection 

t.r. 0r ??



Photos of New Light Waves Slideshow Add Photo
The business half.
BETA PHOTO: The business half.
Climb goes up the rope line.
BETA PHOTO: Climb goes up the rope line.
Infamous MP point whore, Remo.
Infamous MP point whore, Remo.
Good shot of the crux, funky c3 in the notch.
Good shot of the crux, funky c3 in the notch.
Comments on New Light Waves Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Fons
Apr 30, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This is the classic do it once and thats good enough for me climb. It messed my finger up for months. The climbing leading up to the crux is rather interesting though and probably worth doing if the crux hadn't beet me up so bad.

By Tradoholic
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R

Eh...got on it and got shut down. The gear looks to be acceptable though. Might be much better when the temps cool down. Got over the roof and got my right hand in a mono-stack, sounds right to anyone?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

That mono sounds about right. I think I used it as an intermediate. I also remember a knee-bar in the corner. I put a knee pad on for it (don't judge me).

I also checked out the gear on this. It's all there.

By Tradoholic
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R

Knee bar? Just smearing? The gear looked doable but not really "all there", I will have to take another look when it cools down a bit.

By Tradoholic
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R

If you climb to the notch and use holds a bit left, then right back onto the face this thing is 11a, if you go direct then it's 12b, maybe harder I couldn't get it.

By Alex A
Jul 16, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

There 2 ways to do this both about the same grade, 5.12b/c from the notch, knee bar, straight up or move right a slight bit, do some weird side pulls, and you do avoad the holds left of the notch,

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 11, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I wish I could give this 2.5 stars, it's really good! Thanks for the beta Trad Nanny.

By Tradoholic
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R

Led this today. Crux piece is a C3 in a weird upward pointing orientation, not sure if it would have taken a fall. Remo and I used totally different beta for the crux. Complicated for such a short climb.

By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Mar 17, 2012

Nice lead man!